Glaetzer Anaperenna Barossa Valley Shiraz

Ben Glaetzer Anaperenna Barossa Valley Shiraz with BBQ Ribs

With grilled BBQ ribs, crescent rolls and balsamic buratta salad on the deck, I pulled from the cellar this aged Aussie Shiraz for the occasion. 

This is from producer/winemaker Ben Glaetzer whose family first settled in the Barossa Valley in 1888 after emigrating from Germany. They settled in a country town called Nuriootpa in the Barossa Valley where they were some of the earliest recorded viticulturalists in the Barossa Valley and Clare Valley.

Over a century later, winemaking patriarch Colin Glaetzer established Glaetzer Wines, a boutique family owned winery producing premium Barossa Valley wines. Today Colin’s son Ben carries on the wine making legacy and traditions at Glaetzer Wines.

My research and records show that the Glaetzer label "Godolphin" Shiraz Cabernet had it's name changed to Anaperenna between the 2005 and this 2006 vintage. Godolphin's Shiraz Cabernet name was changed to 'Anaperenna' due to a dispute or confusion of the name with another label from another producer.

Anaperenna is the same wine from the same producer/winemaker, from the same renowned vineyard sources with up to 85-year-old vines from the Ebenezer district in the northern Barossa Valley, considered by many as the finest sub-region in the Valley, with the same branding and symbol on the label as its predecessor.

The name Anaperenna is inspired by Anna Perenna, the Roman goddess of the New Year. Anna Perenna symbolised the year's cycle and her name translates as 'enduring year'. Romans honoured Anna Perenna with a festival held on the first full moon of the Roman calendar. On March 15th they would ask Anna to grant them longevity, and a healthy year for each glass of wine they drank on that day.

All Glaetzer labels are branded with a ancient historic Egyptian symbol. The Annaperenna label is the Egyptian Ankh (pronounced: onk). Historically the ankh symbolised sunrise, regeneration, regrowth and renewal.

We hold several vintages of several wines from the Glaetzer portfolio including their ultra-premium flagship wine, Amon-Ra.

Glaetzer "Anaperenna" (formerly GoDolphin) Barossa Valley South Australia Shiraz-Cabernet 2006 

At seventeen years, the fill level, foil, label, and importantly, the cork, as shown, were in ideal condition. This is still holding its own with life left to last perhaps another five years at the apex of its drinking window. The Cellartracker drinking window was through 2023 and as a result of tonight, I extended mine to 2025. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate wrote in 2007, "Give this classy wine 4-6 years in the cellar and enjoy it through 2030." Wine Spectator (JR) wrote in 2009, "I'd give this at least another four of five years of bottle aging."

This label release was awarded 94-97 points by Wine Advocate, 94 points by James Halliday and Wine Enthusiast, 92 points by Vinous, and 91-92 points by Wine Spectator, and Jancis Robinson gave it 18.5 on her 20 point scale (which frankly I prefer as I find it easier to encode and interpret).

Winemaker Notes - "The 2006 Shiraz (75%) – Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) "Anaperenna" is the wine formerly known as Godolphin, the change resulting from a trademark dispute. It was aged for 15 months in new French and American oak. Opaque purple, it offers a sensational bouquet of pain grille, scorched earth, meat, game, blueberry, and black currants. This is followed by a surprisingly elegant yet powerful, structured wine with gobs of spicy fruit, ripe tannins, and a plush texture. The long, 60-second finish is succulent and sweet. 

This is a blend of 75% Shiraz and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. t was aged for 15 months in new French and American oak.

Harvey Steinman of Wine Spectator artfully noted: " ... juicy currant and cedar flavors of Cabernet whistling through the blackberry and exotic spice of the Shiraz."

This is classic Aussie style Shiraz with full dark ripe fruits blackberries, plums, and blackcurrants with layers of cassis, dark chocolate, tobacco, and hints of spices.

Tonight this was completely consistent with my last tasting notes posted on 12/6/2020  when I wrote,

"Deep inky black dark garnet-purple colored, medium-full bodied, complex, intense, concentrated black berry black raspberry and blueberry fruits with notes of graphite, cassis, pain grille, vanilla, mocha and spice turning to a long lush smooth tannin laced nicely balanced oak finish."

92 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/12/trio-of-south-australia-shiraz.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=399095

https://glaetzer.com/  

@GlaetzerWines

First Drop "Mother's Milk" Shiraz 2020

First Drop "Mother's Milk" Shiraz 2020

For a Sunday night dinner we ordered in pizza and opened this Barossa Valley Shiraz. We picked up this bottle from the email promotion from Wine Disount Center, vinchicago.com - easy and simple since they deliver curbside pickup just down the road from our house. 

From the vinchicago promotion mailer: "Recently named "Value Pick of the Week" by Wine Spectator, the 2020 Mother’s Milk is not just bold, but also impressively elegant. From 1998 through 2006-ish, Australian Shiraz was the hottest category in wine. This one shows that they still deserve your attention. There is so much to like about this wine. You will find yourself quickly pouring a second glass!"

This is from producer First Drop, founded in 2004, they produce single vineyard shiraz's sourced from distinct vineyard sites in the Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale and Barossa.

They operate out of the First Drop Wines Cellar Door & Tapas Bar at The Home Of The Brave, housed within the walls of the historic striking 1930’s built distillery on the Provenance Barossa Precinct (previously the site of Penfold’s winery).

They have a broad portfolio, perhaps best known for their premium "Eden Valley" series sourced from the higher elevation above the Barossa Valley that "embrace the funk to make even more diverse expressions of Syrah that speak of their unique sites", and their ultra-super premium "Fat of the Land" series of Shiraz' that "showcase the sub regions of the Barossa, and the contrasting styles of Shiraz that can be made (t) here. One can make such varied expressions of Shiraz, due to the different meso-climates of each subregion, the elevation range, and the myriad of soil types that are to be found throughout the Barossa." 

They also produce some super ultra-premium labels of Cabernet Sauvignons from McLaren Vale, 'Dragon's Blood' and 'Votum', they cite as an ode to the Penfolds style, rich, intensely structured McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon, both promoted with a release price of $350AU. 

First Drop "Mother's Milk" Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020 

This release was awarded 94 Points by James Suckling and 92 Points by Wine Spectator

Nice easy sipping with pizza, I wouldn't save it for a grilled beefsteak dinner lacking elegance and polish. But hey, screw top simple and enjoyable pleasant sipping with a great QPR - Quality Price Ratio!

Dark garnet purple colored, medium full bodied, full round, dark plum, blackberry and black raspberry fruits with bramble, pepper, earthy spice, black tea and what Suckling describes as slate, with tangy acidity on a moderate firm tannin laced lingering finish.

 RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3996033

https://www.firstdropwines.com/

https://twitter.com/firstdropwines

@firstdropwines

Deci-significant Old Man's Birthday Wine

Deci-significant Old Man's Birthday Wine

For my deci-significant birthyear birthday celebration, I pulled from the cellar this aged vintage aptly-named top rated super premium Barossa Valley Shiraz for the occasion. 

This is the flagship wine of Kaesler, one of the traditional old vine family names of the Barossa Valley, South Australia with vineyards dating back to 1893. 

The first owners of the Kaesler vineyards were Silesian pioneers who came to the Barossa Valley in the 1840s and took up 96 acres in 1891. By 1893 they had planted the entire acreage with Shiraz, Grenache, Mataro (Mourvedre) and White Hermitage vines. Some of the gnarled dry-grown Shiraz still remain and provide the backbone of a family of intense wines.

The Kaesler family first purchased several blocks 1893 and operated the property until 1986. In those early days, much of the fruit was sold to Seppeltsfield for port and sherry production.

By 1917 with grape sales flagging, various blocks were pulled up and replanted to orchards including apricot, peach and plums. The remaining vines mostly consisted of red and fortified varieties, some Grenache added in the 1930’s and more Shiraz planted in the 60’s and 70’s. These plantings account for the celebrated aged Shiraz produce to today.

In 1944 the family holdings were divided between the three Kaesler brothers, two selling off their properties, but Arthur Kaesler (the youngest brother) held on to the home block converting orchards back to vineyard and maintaining its old vines. Kaesler sold the property in 1986 to private owners who continued to sell the fruit to local wineries including Penfolds, Seppelt and Orlando. 

At the time, the Kaesler vineyards consisted of over 70% red wine vines, all 40 years of age or more.  

Winemaker Reid ‘Boz’ Bosward heard of the remarkable qualities of this special vineyard when he managed to get his hands on some of the grapes and produce a special batch of the first Old Bastard Shiraz in 1998. 

In 1999, Bosward seized the opportunity to become the head of the new Kaesler family property when he and his partners bought Kaesler, becoming the third owners of the property. Teaming with Swiss banker Edourd Peters, they formed a syndicate and purchased and consolidated two of the three original historic old vine Kaesler Blocks, and Old Bastard was born.

The revered 2.5 acre (12 row) vineyard consists of 125 year old vines that sit just outside the back door of the winery, Kaesler Cellar Door; an old brick horse stable now is a private tasting room, an old cow shed now the Kaesler Kitchen restaurant, and Ernst Kaesler’s old house, now the Kaesler Cottages B&B.

One of the most famous patches of Shiraz vines in the Barossa, sourced from a unique clone of French Rhone Valley Shiraz (now extinct in France) they produce a unique flavour characteristics and distinctive profile that makes the Old Bastard what it is.  It has become recognized as one of Australia’s most highly regarded Shiraz wines, consistently rated as one of the Barossa’s benchmark Shiraz wines and is highly sought after by wine collectors around the world.

Consistent wine making since 1998, focusing on meticulous vineyard management and using the highest quality Burgundian oak for 12 to 19 months depending on the character of the vintage, Kaesler Shiraz is bottled “au naturel”, with no fining and filtration. The result is fruit driven to the core, elegant with density and richness, savoury muscular tannins and underlying oak.

Kaesler "Old Bastard" Barossa Valley South Australia Shiraz 2005  

 

The whimsical label features a distinctive Ralph Steadman caricature.  

 

My records show we also drank the 2001 vintage of this label for my birthday back in 2004 and then again at our OTBN event in 2013 (Open That Bottle Night,)

 

This '05 release was awarded 98 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 95 points by Wine Enthusiast and WS Forum, 94 points from Wine Spectator.

 

Dark inky purple, full bodied, round, full throttled, tight, ultra-concentrated thick forward raisiny spicy blackberry and blueberry fruits with with notes of bacon fat, bramble, game, licorice, pepper, cedar and spice with firm long lasting tannins on the finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=428470

 

https://kaesler.com.au/kaesler-old-bastard/

 

https://twitter.com/kaeslerwines

 

Branson Coach House Barossa Greenock Block Shiraz 2004

Branson Coach House Barossa Valley Single Vineyard Greenock Block Shiraz 2004

For casual sipping in front of a movie, the kids and Linda wanted a hearty flavorful Shiraz so I selected from the cellar this big bold Aussie Shiraz.

I discovered and tasted this wine with Wine Manager Bill and the Aussie wine buyer at the wine desk at Binny's in Glen Ellyn back upon release. I liked it so much I bought their entire allocation which was only a couple six packs.

This property was taken over by Two Hands after the passing of proprietor Malcolm Asden, the result being these wines are now made alongside Two Hands by their winemaker Matt Wenk. The acquisition was made possible by capital from outside foreign investors.

Along with the winery and brand came eighteen acres of Greenock vineyards planted in mature high quality Shiraz which will continue to be produced under the BCH label. Subsequently, Two Hands wine production is also done at the BCH Greenock facility.

They continue to produce BCH premium single vineyard designated labels Coach House Block Rare Single Vineyard and Greenock Block Single Vineyard Shiraz's sourced from the vineyards that surround the winery.

Tonight, even though my Cellartracker records show I am out of this label/release, I found two bottles left in the cellar, (in place of a different label/release from the same producer).

Now, at sixteen years of age, this is aging gracefully, but starting to show its age with slight signs of diminution of the fruits.

Upon opening it was slightly obtuse with a bit of an edge, but over the course of an hour it opened, softened and became more approachable.

Dark inky purple color, full bodied, thick, chewy layers of aromatic flavors of tangy black fruits, raspberry, black cherry and black currants, accented by tones of clove spice, graphite & hints of creme de cassis on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

RM 90 points, two points less than the last tastings back nearly four years ago on Aug 6, 2016 and then Oct 11, 2017. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545

Hazyblur Barossa Valley Shiraz 2003

HazyBlur South Australia Barossa Valley Shiraz 2003

"The vines so drenched with sunlight, they appeared to be radiating rays themselves. A magical sight to experience; - a hallowed blurry haze." 

From the rear label of HazyBlur Barossa Valley Shiraz 2003 and hence how it derives its name, hazyblur! 

We pulled this vintage South Australian Barossa Valley Shiraz for serious sipping with some artisan cheeses and soup. Living out the Coronavirus enforced exhile!

South Australia is the nation’s most important wine region. South Australia is to Australia what California is to the U.S. with about half of Australia’s wine produced there including many of the country’s most acclaimed producers. 

The prestigious Barossa Valley is located in central South Australia, and is akin to California's Napa Valley with scenic picturesque topography covered in grape vines. 

First farmed by 19th century German-speakers who immigrated from what is now Poland, the Barossa Valley is the crown jewel of the region. 

Like Northern California, South Australia has widely varying climates, from very hot, dry areas to cooler, high altitude areas. The region has more than 150,000 acres planted in vineyards, more than three times that of Napa Valley with just less than 50,000. (Compare that to 300,000 in Bordeaux!) Shiraz is king, the primary varietal of the region however it also produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Mourvedre, Chardonnay and Semillon. 

The Barossa was founded by Colonel William Light, the South Australian colony’s Surveyor-General, who named the Barossa in 1837 after the site of an English victory over the French in the Spanish Peninsular War. In the mid-1800’s Silesian and English immigrants settled in the area. 

HazyBlur Barossa Valley Shiraz 2003

The Barossa is comprised primarily of two distinct sub-regions: Eden Valley and Barossa Valley which is the warmer valley floor at 270m. The warm Mediterranean climate has hot dry summers with relatively low rainfall moderated by cool sea breezes from the Gulf of St Vincent, much like the southern end of Napa Valley. Like the southern Rhone river valley, hot northerly winds can occasionally dominate leading to vine stress. Like Napa and the Rhone, older established vineyards are dry-grown, but supplementary irrigation is being used more extensively. The valley is comprised of rich brown soils and alluvial sands.

We hold a half dozen vintages and labels of Hazyblur Shiraz from their sites in Barossa Valley, Baroota, Kangaroo Island, Adelaide Plains, McLaren Vale and the broader South Australia region. This bottle from 2003 was selected as it is the oldest in our collection, as part of practical cellar management.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this vintage release 94 points.  Wine Spectator gave it 93 points and Vinous 90 points. 

This label if sourced from 40-year-old vines resulting in extraordinary, super-intense fruit. 

Dark purple colored, big, full bodied, forward intense super ripe and concentrated black and more subtle blue fruits, almost raisin and fig notes, are accented by creme de cassis, creosote, smoke and oak. 

Linda actually likes this heady, super ripe, rich and intense style more than I do. This is holding its own at seventeen years but will most likely not improve, but start to diminish with further age, so its time to drink. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=53696

 

Ben Schild Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz

Schild Estate Ben Schild Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz (Syrah) 2008

For a hearty big bold wine to accompany left over grilled steak and some hearty cheese to watch the Cubs play game four of the baseball NLDS (and their miraculous ninth inning comeback!), I pulled this Ben Schild Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz.

Earlier I had run to the store to pick up some Smoked Gouda Cheese which was perfect for the occasion and set the stage for the grilled steak, both perfectly complemented by this wine. I write often in these pages about the synergy of effectively pairing food with wine for optimal enjoyment and tonight was such the case.

There was a reason I picked up a case of this wine upon release and its profile and suitability for this type of drinking was it. While we enjoy big bold concentrated forward fruit, many such Syrahs (aka Shiraz) also have tones of metallic graphite or camphor. While I find this is not my preference, the body weight and big fruit matched with meat, cheese or chocolate is one of my favorite wine tasting experiences.

Consistent with earlier tasting notes. The colour of the Reserve was deep dark Ruby Red and inky purple. Huge aromas of black and blue fruits and violets give way to bright vibrant concentrated tongue coating flavors bursting with blueberry, black raspberry, ripe plum and chocolate, with tones of cedar, camphor, black pepper, spice, a bit of graphite, turning to nicely integrated oak on a long lingering tannin finish.

I would rate this higher were it not for that somewhat obtuse layer of non-fruit graphite, cedar and camphor.
RM 92 points.

When writing about this wine, I feel compelled to digress to talk about the producer and some of his past marketing practices.

This wine is dedicated to the producer patriarch Ben Schild who has been farming the Schild Estate Three Springs property in Rowland Flat Barossa since 1952. Today the property is farmed by second and third generation Schilds. Fruit for this wine is sourced from a single vineyard in the Hills overlooking Lyndoch where the elevated location and cooling winds helped temper the effects of a warm year resulting in earlier ripening thereby avoiding a late season heat wave that afflicted other growers in the Southern Barossa.

The remarkable interesting side note about Schild; this is not the same wine but it is the same producer and vintage as the Schild Barossa Shiraz that after receiving high reviews, 94 points, and placing in Wine Spectator’s Top 10 Wines of the Year in 2010, naturally subsequently quickly sold out. Schild then proceeded to purchase, blend and bottle additional wine from other producers, but still market such under the 'same' label. Extraordinary, unethical, deceptive, conniving, creative, but legal, none-the-less.

(Imagine buying a new Ford but finding out Ford ran low on engines and purchased and provided alternative replacement engines from some other supplier. (See Bait and Switch?; Schild Estate: Questionable Bottling Practices in 2008 Shiraz; What Makes a Wine a Wine?).

Only after being challenged by reporters did the winery affix an extra label to the secondary bottlings identifying them as a second blend.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1386115

http://schildestate.com.au/ben-schild-reserve-shiraz

Big Red Wine Flight with Pizza on Boys' Night Out

Big Red Wine Flight with Pizza on Boys' Night Out

When wine buddy and colleague Gary M brought his son Brett over to tour our cellar, they showed up with a couple of pizzas on an evening we were all bach'ing it. I was hoping (my) #1 Son Ryan could also join us but it turned out he was traveling.

We pulled (from the cellar), popped and poured some big hearty pizza wines. I wanted to show off one of my favorite Big Reds, Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz, compared to another similar vintage and site selection Kaesler Bogan 2005, and another favorite high QPR favorite Shiraz Ninety-Plus Cellars Lot 101.

I've written in this blog about the producer Flinders Run Emanuel Skorpos and the Southern Flinders Range's site and their winemaking heritage.

We hold two vintages of this wine, the 2005 and the 2006 which was bigger, more brooding and bold, but less slightly polished or elegant than the '05. That said, I wanted to see how the '06 would match up alongside the Kaesler which has a similar style and character but is even moreso the traits of the '06 relative to the '05, Flinders, forward, slightly aggressive, less polished.

Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2006

We love this wine and consider it a benchmark representation of Southern Australian Shiraz at its very best, and at a pricepoint between $25-35 it offers a relative great QPR (Quality to Price ratio). I wish I could find more of it. Not sure what happened to Flinders Run. It appeared on the market selectively for these vintages and we haven't see it since.

Like earlier comparison tasting of varied big reds, this was the hit of the evening. Consistent with earlier notes, the 2006 Flinders is dark inky purple, full bodied, powerfully scented bouquet of dark berries, smoky minerals and fresh flowers bursting with flavors of thick chewy black raspberry, blueberry and cassis with layers of nut, vanilla and hints of mocha flavors on a tongue coating lingering finish with tones of black tea and what Parker refers to as 'pain grillé' which is the French word for 'toast'. As much as we like this wine, the 2005 may be even better, being more polished, smoother and more balanced.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=579974

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421985

http://www.flindersrun.com.au/

Kaesler The Bogan Barossa Valley Shiraz 2005

Like the Flinders, this is not for the feint of heart. This is another big bold forward wine that demands a food pairing to balance its aggressiveness. While this label tends to be popular and highly rated, it is not a style I favor, as I find it to have non-fruit characteristics predominating that detract from its appeal. Before we tasted this, I warned the guys it would be similar in style with its big bold forward approach, but the fruit would be diminished by a layer of tea, tobacco leaf and creosote. It revealed itself exactly as I predicted.

Read through the long litany of Cellartracker reviews and see the preponderance of earth, pepper, coffee, smoked meat, leather and mint, eucalyptus and  you'll see what I mean. While these are all acceptable descriptors and tones in a big forward wine, I prefer they be accents rather than the mainstream headliner tones, which has been my experience with the lesser and mid tier Kaesler labels (Oct 10, 2002, April 20, 2008,  Sept 22, 2005, February 28, 2007). Only at the high end with their ulta-premium 'Old Bastard' label (March 11, 2002, May 22, 2004, February 23, 2013), at $100+, have I experienced the fruit to predominate in their wines.

As with earlier tastings, dark inky purple garnet colored, full bodied with nose of earth, pepper and spices before revealing fruit flavors. Tones of blackberry, black cherry are overtaken by alcohol, smoke, creosote, tobacco leaf and black tea with hints of cedar and mint on the firm lengthy finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=292220 

http://kaesler.com.au/ 

Ninety Plus Cellars Columbia Valley Lot 101 Syrah 2009

Like earlier tastings, I opened this Shiraz to show a contrast in styles and regions, and age, of the same varietal. I've raved about this wine several times in this blog, and tonight, like before, it didn't disappoint, standing up to the other Big Reds. I've stated that this may be one of our favorite drinking wines in our cellar right now, certainly at this price point!

Compared to the forward, obtuse Kaeslar, the Lot 101 Shiraz came across as smooth, polished and elegant, although not as much so as the Flinders.

Dark inky garnet colored, medium to full bodied, this full throttle Syrah reveals layers of blackberry and black currants fruits with tones of sweet vanilla, caramel and spice with hints of black pepper on a lingering smooth silky tannin finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1742790

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/wines/lot-101-collectors-series-syrah

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 91 Rutherford Napa Valley Zinfandel 2012

For a last comparison tasting of another Big Red, I pulled this Napa Valley Rutherford Zinfandel. The rep for this was pouring it when I stopped in Sav-Way Hinsdale the other evening and it presented itself as a big forward fruit filled easy sipper that should go well with pizza - and a good QPR at $17. When I opened it tonight against the other Big Reds, it met its match and was put in its place. When compared to the big Aussie Shiraz', this came across as lean and even a bit flabby with moderate fruit and body. By itself, it would've probably been fine for a casual easy sipping pizza wine, as prescribed, but against the big bold Barossa Shiraz', it wasn't a fair fight. 

I've written often in this blog about Ninety-Plus Cellars with their high QPR negociant offerings. 

Here is their listing on this Napa Valley Rutherford Zinfandel.

"Story - This winery has been harvesting Zinfandel in the heart of the Napa Valley since way back when big hair and parachute pants were popular. It's a totally righteous red made from Zinfandel ripened to perfection under the Napa Sunshine. Straight up, this is one totally awesome Zin that you'll never want to give up.'

"Tasting Notes - Inky purple with aromas of raspberries, wildflowers, and toffee that rain down upon a foundation of ripe plum, and sweet spice. A magical celebration of flavor hits you like a sledgehammer, beckoning you to give it one more try all night long. Time after time, it pairs perfectly with a grilled ribeye with or without bleu cheese. Show your true colors by sharing it with others because that's what friends are for."

Dark purple/garnet colored, medium-full bodied, blackberry and black raspberry fruits with a bit of leather and spice. 

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1970092

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/wines/lot-91-zinfandel

Kilikanoon Testament Barossa Shiraz 2004

Kilikanoon Testament Shiraz 2004

On a cold blustery snowy Chicago winter evening, we ventured out to Angelis, our local neighborhood Trattoria for a hearty wine and dine meal. We took this Kilikanoon Testament Shiraz, BYOB which turned out to be a perfect complement to both our entree selections - Linda's Butternut Squash Gnochi (think brown sugar - to which she has them add spinach), and my Pasta and Peas with Italian Sausage in Vodka Cream Sauce - a winter favorite (see below).

For a starter, we had Angeli's extraordinary clam chowder which is the best anywhere with its thick, chewy smoky bacon undertones.

Kilikanoon Testament Barossa Valley Shiraz 2004

Perhaps it was the warm ambiance and the food pairing, or the dozen years of age added to this wine, but tonight, while consistent with earlier tasting notes, it was even more delicious and tasty than I remember. This typifies everything we love in a hearty Shiraz with its rich, concentrated, complex succulent fruit flavors.

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, the blackberry, blueberry and black cherry fruits are accented by a layer of creosote expresso with tones of cigar box and cedar with hints of mocha, black pepper and anise on the lingering chewy tannin finish.

Upon opening and for the first hour, the non-fruit tones detract a bit from the polish and finesse of the wine in my opinion hence it is perhaps best consumed with hearty food, dark chocolate or full cheese. The next day this was balanced, nicely polished and harmonious.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=292243 


http://www.kilikanoon.com.au/

Angeli's Pasta and Peas
with Italian Sausage in Vodka Cream Sauce

Angeli's decadent Butternut Squash Gnochi
(with some spinach added)

Penfolds Legendary Grange Highlights Tasting Flight

Penfolds Legendary Grange Highlights Tasting Flight

We attended a tasting event of the Penfolds line-up including legendary Grange held at Binny's new wine superstore in Oak Brook, IL.  At 170 years of age, Penfolds is one of the oldest producers in Australia. They were named Australian Wine Producer of the Year 2014 by the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC). Their  flagship wine ultra-premium Grange is one of the most prestigious labels in the world as well as from Australia.

The 1995 Wine Spectator wine of the year was the 1990 vintage Penfold's Grange. We still hold an original wood case of 1990 Grange to commemorate son Alec's birth year. Hence, the chance to taste Grange is a special treat, as is the opportunity to learn more about this classic wine. Our collection of birth year wines of our kids, including our large format bottles was the basis for our cellar being featured in the Collecting section of the June 2001 issue.

The extensive Penfolds portfolio consists of entry level, select, special vineyard selections and is headed by The Penfolds Collection, consisting of fifteen different labels featuring special selections of Shiraz, then Cabernet Sauvignon, and also including Mouvedre, another Rhone blend, Chardonnay and a Riesling. They also offer a line of fortified wines which are their original heritage.

Tonight's tasting flight featured nine different wines culminating in two vintages of the classic Grange. The program was currated by Penfolds Ambassador and Education Director DLynn Proctor. What fun to meet DLynn in person having enjoyed watching his pursuit of his Master Sommelier Certification in the entertaining documentary movie SOMM which is a feature on Netflix.

The wine flights were accompanied by an assortment of cheeses, prosciutto, olives, and French bread.


The flight included:

• Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling 2013
• Bin 8 Cabernet/Shiraz 2011
• Bin 389 Cabernet/Shiraz 2011
• Bin 28 Shiraz Kalimna 2011
• Bin 128 Shiraz 2012
• Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
• Penfolds RWT Shiraz 2010
• Penfolds Grange 2009
• Penfolds Grange 2010

The wines were poured in an informal setting from three tables but the group was small allowing for engaging discussion, access to pours, ability to ask questions and have informed discourse.

The event was staffed and supported by Team Binny's, Southern Wine and Spirits and the Prestige group which is the parent company of Penfolds.

The wines:

Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling 2013

The author with DLynne Proctor

From Eden Valley, with its high altitude and cool climate, this is a white wine that can be enjoyed upon release or held for long term cellaring. The winemaker suggests optimal drinking window through 2020.

The winemaker cites "floral, spicy jasmine, mandarin blossom and underlying French marigold amongst perfumed bath salts and an intriguing wet slate minerality accented bylime zest.

Fine, long and linear natural acid encompassing the entire length of the palate – talc, slate, mineral - Citrus bursts with lime juice. Fine, long and linear natural acid encompassing the entire length of the palate – talc, slate, mineral. One for the ages - classic Australian bone dry Riesling."

Straw colored, light bodied, crisp, clean, nicely balanced acidity.

RM 88 points.

Bin 389 Cabernet/Shiraz 2011

A totally different experience than the Grange, but understandable at a fraction of the price, this is more in the style of the big dense chewy Shiraz' that we love and enjoy regularly.

Bin 389 Cabernet/Shiraz 2011 - This is known as 'poor man's Grange' or DLynne called it 'baby Grange'. It is sourced from some of the same blocks as Grange and is produced in the same style - a blend of Shiraz and Cabernet from multiple districts - South Australia. Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway, Robe, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek and Clare Valley. Also, perhaps most notably, components of the wine are matured in the same barrels that held the previous vintage of Grange!

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, dense, concentrated, complex black berry fruits accented by tones of spicy mocha, coffee, hints of tar and vanilla oak on a lingering moderate tannin finish. A slight off tone of metallic detracts from the accent tones on the finish.

A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and 49% Shiraz.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1491815

Bin 28 Shiraz Kalimna 2011
Bin 128 Shiraz 2012
Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Penfolds RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz 2010

Penfolds RWT Shiraz is named for ‘Red Winemaking Trial’, the name given initially to an internal project to develop this wine back in 1995. No longer a ‘Trial’ RWT Shiraz was launched in May 2000 with the release of the 1997 vintage. 

Dark inky blackish purple color, medium to full bodied, complex black berry fruits, with soft subtle tones of blueberry, boysenberry and plum, accented by nicely integrated sweet oak, floral spice, hints of earth and anise with silky fine tannins on a smooth long finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1572039

Penfolds Grange 2009

Grange is the ultra-premium flagship of the brand that is blended from the finest picking of the most select fruit sourced from vineyards from several appellations across South Australia from Penfolds and several  growers with long term relationships with the company. The pickers make as many as ten passes through the vineyards selecting the finest bunches of grapes. The wine is aged in 100% new American Oak for about seventeen months. 

Dark garnet inky purple colored, medium to full bodied, a symphony of elegant complex balanced black berry, black raspberry and black cherry fruits accented by sweet spicy oak, hints of anise and subtle tone of sweet mocha chocolate turning to silky smooth polished lingering tannins. Delicious.

RM 96 points. 

The 2009 Grange Shiraz is a blend of 84% Barossa, 8% McLaren, and a bit of Clare Valley and Magill fruits with a touch of 2% of Cabernet Sauvignon.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=856948

Penfolds Grange 2010

The 2010 release is the 60th consecutive vintage release of Grange. The core is Barossa Valley Shiraz (85%) the remaining 15% shiraz (and 4% cabernet sauvignon) from the Clare Valley, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale and Magill Estate.

The vintage got 100 points from James Suckling, 99 points from James Halliday and Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 98 points from Wine Spectator.
 
Dark inky purple colored, medium to full bodied, powerful, concentrated but balanced and polished black berry and black cherry fruits hint of blue berry with dark spices, tones of smoke, anise, hints of tar and cedar with complex firm but smooth and polished lingering tannin finish. Needs some time to settle.

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=939407

https://www.penfolds.com/

Henschke Keyneton Estate Barossa Valley Red Blend 1996

I selected this aged 1996 vintage wine from the cellar to complement a quiet dinner at home with wife Linda. We had Top Sirloin steak prepared my favorite 'Pittsburgh' charred style, served with wild rice and asparagus spears (left). Afterwards it went well with a selection of chocolates and cheeses including one of my favorites, Bellavitano with butter crackers.

The Henschke family have been producing wine for six generations starting when Johann Christian Henschke planted a small vineyard on his farming property in Keyneton, about 80 km northeast of Adelaide, South Australia back in 1862. Today the property is run by fifth-generation Stephen Henschke as winemaker and his wife Prue as viticulturist. Henschke boasts a broad portfolio anchored by their ultra-premium single-vineyard labels. Most recently, Henschke was named 2011 Winery of the Year at the inaugural Age/Sydney Morning Herald Good Wine Guide awards. Sixth generation family members Johann, Justine and Andreas, are now actively involved exploring new development in organic and biodynamic programs.

This Keyneton Estate is an interesting  blend of 65% Shiraz, 30% Cabernet-Sauvignon and 5% Merlot.


We've had this bottle in the cellar for more than a decade. The Henschke was medium bodied and dark garnet colored with a slight brownish hue likely indicating its age. I've not had this label before so I don't have a basis for comparison but my sense is the fruit cited by others in their reviews has fallen off and given way since the predominate taste initially is black pepper followed by black licorice before revealing a layer of smoky charcoal turning to accent tones of cedar.

Eventually, over the course of the evening a layer of blackberry and hint of spice emerged beneath the other flavors, with a grip of clinging tannins on the finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=366800

http://henschke.com.au/

Hall and Keenan Napa Cabernet Duo - Haan Prestige Shiraz

Hall and Keenan Napa Cabernet Duo - Haan Prestige Barossa Shiraz

Three big reds compliment steak dinner at favorite local bistro

For a hearty dinner with friends Gayle and Mark at Angelis Italian, our favorite local bistro we tasted two big Napa Cabernets against a vintage Australian Shiraz - Hall 2006 and Keenan 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons, and Haan Prestige Barossa Shiraz 2003. We recently visited Hall Vineyards' magnificent Rutherford Estate during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2013 so I wanted to revisit  one of my personally highest rated Hall Cabernets that we're holding in our cellar. The Keenan is currently available at Wine Discount Center so I wanted to taste it against a benchmark wine contemplating further purchases. In earlier tasting notes I likened it to a big juicy fruit forward Australian shiraz so a comparison tasting was in order.

Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

The Hall stood up to earlier accolades and indeed compared most favorably with the big bold Aussie Shiraz, and provided a comparison benchmark to stand up aside the Keenan.

From my earlier notes, the Hall presented "Dark inky color, rich, dense, concentrated, style, full-bodied, fruit forward ripe sweet currant, ripe black raspberry, plum, black cherry fruits, mocha and hints of black licorice with a long soft tannin finish.Has the rich thick jammy fruit of a south Australian Shiraz."  I would emphasize big, full, concentrated fruits with a firm tannic backbone. In this evening's tasting it met my highest expectations and stood over the Shiraz, the other Cab and was indeed a perfect complement to the New York strip steak dinner.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=761928

http://www.hallwines.com/




Keenan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Some of our favorite Napa Cabernets come from Spring Mountain District above the town of St Helena in the Mayacamas Range on the western slope of Napa Valley - Fantesca, Pride, Lail, and of course Paloma with their award winning Merlots. We visited Keenan Winery up on Spring Mountain during our Napa Wine Experience 2007.
We've had fun serving this wine with friend Jim Keenan.

Medium bodied, forward fruit flavors of blackberry and cherry, floral with a layer of licorice and hints of spice and coffee with moderate, soft tannins.

100% Cabernet Sauvignon - 73% from Spring Mountain, 27% from Pope Valley. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1482065

http://www.keenanwinery.com/

Photo from our 2007 Keenan Vineyards visit high up Spring Mountain.

Keenan vineyard high up Spring Mountain

Haan Prestige Barossa Valley Shiraz 2003

The ladies preferred this more approachable wine with its full flavorful fruits to the firmer, tighter more structured and concentrated Cabernets.

Medium bodied, spicy, earthy leathery super ripe black berry fruit, touch of menthol, hint of vanilla on a long spice finish.

RM 89 points.
 
http://cellartracker.com/w?174207 
 

Ben Schild Barossa Valley Reserve Shiraz 2008

Ben Schild Barossa Valley Reserve Shiraz 2008

Another tasting of a much enjoyed wine from earlier in the year - tasted with L and Pat in town visiting for Michelle's shower - great accompaniment to artisan cheeses and fresh fruit. This wine is dedicated to the producer patriarch Ben Schild who has been farming the Schild Estate Three Springs property in Rowland Flat Barossa since 1952. Today the property is farmed by second and third generation Schilds. Fruit for this wine is sourced from a single vineyard in the Hills overlooking Lyndoch where the elevated location and cooling winds helped temper the effects of a warm year resulting in earlier ripening thereby avoiding a late season heat wave that afflicted other growers in the Southern Barossa.

By the way, it is worth noting again this remarkable interesting side note; this is not the same wine but it is the same producer and vintage as the Schild Barossa Shiraz that after receiving high reviews, 94 points, and placing in Wine Spectator’s Top 10 Wines of the Year in 2010, naturally subsequently sold out. Schild then proceeded to purchase, blend and bottle additional wine from other producers, but still market such under the 'same' label. Extraordinary, unethical, deceptive, conniving, but legal, none-the-less.

(Imagine buying a new Ford but finding out Ford ran low on engines and purchased and provided alternative replacement engines from some other supplier. (See Bait and Switch?; Schild Estate: Questionable Bottling Practices in 2008 Shiraz; What Makes a Wine a Wine?).

Only after being challenged by reporters did the winery affix an extra label to the secondary bottlings identifying them as a second blend.

The colour of the Reserve was deep dark Ruby Red and inky purple. Huge aromas of blue fruits and violets give way to bright vibrant concentrated tongue coating flavors bursting with blueberry, black raspberry, ripe plum and chocolate, with hints of black pepper, spice and nicely integrated oak on a long lingering soft tannin finish.


My earlier review gave this 93 points (with a footnote of possibly warranting a 94) ... this time there emerged a bit of a graphite tone which detracted somewhat from the fruit so I took off a point. .

RM 92 points .

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1386115

http://schildestate.com.au/ben-schild-reserve-shiraz

Kilikanoon and Arns - Big Shiraz Duel For Celebration Dinner

Big Shiraz Duel For Celebration Dinner - Arns and Kilikanoon

What fun!. For a personal celebration dinner, I chose two favorite best drinking bottles from the cellar - an interesting comparison of Shiraz/Syrah from Australia and Napa Valley. When we think of Syrah, aka Shiraz, we think of south central Australia. When we think of Napa Valley, we think of Cabernet Sauvignon.

One of the discoveries of our recent Napa Wine Experience 2013 was this Syrah from Napa Valley Pritchard Hill. More surprising was that we found this Syrah at a classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon producer, Arns. Further irony of this is that while we found this Pritchard Hill Syrah at Arns Estate on Howell Mountain, a focus of this trip was our visit to Pritchard Hill  with our visit to David Arthur the next day.We tasted these wines, BYOB at Angelis Italian, our favorite local trattoria.This is the second blockbuster Napa Valley Syrah we've found recently, the other being the spectacular Kongsgaard Napa Valley Hudson Vineyard Syrah 2007.

Arns Syrah Melanson Vineyard 2008

The husband wife team of John Arns and Sandi Belcher produce hand crafted full artisan Estate bottled Cabernet Sauvignon from their 10 acres of vineyards on lower Howell Mountain just east of St Helena. We met John at the estate as the first stop of our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2013. We weren't expecting to taste a Syrah but we're glad we did. John sources the grapes for this wine from the Melanson Vineyard up on Pritchard Hill where he and his team manage the viticulture. It did not disappoint.

This full throttle Syrah ended up being one of the highlights of our Napa extended weekend. So for a special celebration dinner this evening, I wanted to compare this Napa sensation against a benchmark Aussie Shiraz.

From my tasting at the winery, the Arns exhibited dark inky garnet color, full bodied, powerful but polished forward flavors of black berry and hints of blue fruits, layers of cassis and mocha, hints of clove, violets, leather and olive with a long lingering firm but silky tannin finish. Much like a big Southern Aussie Shiraz. 14.8%.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1498990

http://arnswinery.com/


Kilikanoon Barossa Valley 'R' Shiraz 2002

What better benchmark Shiraz to compare our new-found Napa discovery than the flagship label from Kilikanoon, the Australian Winery of the Year for 2013. Their Reserve 'R' label is their top label, their finest Barossa Shiraz cuvee from selected single parcels of tiny yielding old vines Shiraz from the Greenock, Vine Vale and Ebenezer sub regions. It is matured for 28 months in small 100% new French oak casks striving for a wine of 'great varietal strength, poise and ageing potential'.


I love their 'Oracle' label full throttle Shiraz, but for this special tasting, I chose their 'R' label, whimsically for my namesake initial wine, in the same way I choose Lewis with their 'L' label for special dinners celebrating Linda and Lucy.

From the winemaker's notes - "Powerfully built yet elegantly restrained, a compelling mix of riper fruit flavours, dark chocolate and fine French oak spice, with outstanding persistence and complexity. Full bodied, rich, ripe plum, black raspberry, subtle blueberry, hints of tar, vanilla, pepper, and graphite on a flavorful finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=320020

http://www.kilikanoon.com.au/

Steve Hoff Rossco's Shiraz 2004

Steve Hoff Rossco's Shiraz South Australia Barossa Valley 2004 

From producer "Heritage Wines" situated in the historic village of Marananga in the Barossa Valley. This small family-owned enterprise is run by winemaker, Steve Hoff, a sixth generation descendant of early Barossa settlers,and his wife, Christine.

Steve Hoff also offers a lower priced Shiraz varietal label that provides a very nice easy drinking fruit filled Shiraz with a high QPR - quality to price ratio.

This bottle exhibited dark purple color, medium to full bodied, slightly funky with black berry fruit flavors overtaken by predominant leathery raisin accented by a smoke, meat, bacon, layer with mocha cassis flavors with a moderate tannin finish. 

RM 84 points.

The funkiness makes me wonder if perhaps this was a slightly tainted bottle. This isn't as good as the lower priced Barossa Shiraz. .

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=357539 

Deep Reds - Del Dotto Cab - Kalleske Shiraz

Two Big 'Deep' Reds with Italian Dinner

In planning our wine selections for our dinner outing with Dennis 'Woz' and Rosie, I asked Dennis what type wines they preferred. He replied that they like big "deep" reds so I selected the 1999 vintage Del Dotto Napa Cabernet and Kalleske Greenock Barossa Shiraz 2005. They both lived up to expectations according to earlier tasting experience notes. These were great accompaniment to the spicy and cheesy pasta dishes, as well as the brown sage sauce on the halibut entree at Angelis, our favorite local Italian trattoria. 

Del Dotto Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

Dining with Dave and Yolanda Del Dotto in the
garden court at Tra Vigne in St Helena

We're long time fans of Del Dotto wines going back to their inaugural vintage in 1993 when they were featured in the Wine Spectator feature of up and coming new producers to watch. We've attended many Del Dotto events and hosted them numerous times at our Napa wine producer dinners during our Napa Wine Experiences.

R & L with Dave Del Dotto in the caves.

We first tasted this vintage selection from the barrel in the Del Dotto cave tour at the old caves over by Silverado Trail. Today, of course they have a magnificent new winery and cave on the estate on Highway 29 and Zinfandel Lane in St Helena, Napa. Everyone to whom we've recommended the Del Dotto Cave Experience during their Napa visit have said it was a highlight of their trip. (It was especially memorable for our good friends Rick and Wendy when Del Dotto arranged an exclusive intimate tasting there where Rick popped 'the question' and proposed.) 

This 1999 vintage selection was featured at their gala festival  Barrels and Beef Extravaganza at the estate which we attended during our Napa Wine Experience in 2002. Later that same year, Del Dotto served this wine at the Wine Spectator Grand Tasting where it was a standout. That winter we took this wine along on our holiday in the Caribbean where it was the center of several memorable dinner experiences. 

The fruit for this selection was sourced from the Del Dotto estate in the Rutherford appellation. My earliest notes of this wine from that time said that "this may be the best ever Cab from our friends Dave and Yolanda Del Dotto - and winemaker Nils Venge". Of course they have since followed up with many spectacular vintages many of which are drinking very nicely such as their 2001 which is showing especially complex, smooth and polished these days and gives the 1999 a run. Suffice to say, this is one of our favorite Napa cabs, a centerpiece of our cellar collection that we continue to enjoy on special occasions and showcase with friends. We're still holding a vertical back to that 1993 release and we continue to be amazed and pleased with their longevity! 

The 1999 Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is dark ruby colored, full bodied, complex but nicely balanced with intense dark cherry, black currant and blackberry fruits, a spicy tangy oak layer on a lingering finish of tight structured tannins. This wine cries for a big juicy steak or bold cheese or dark chocolate accompaniment. 

RM 92 points. 


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=616988

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/



Kalleske Greenock Barossa Valley Shiraz 2005

Intense, full bodied, inky colour, thick chewy tongue-coating ripe black cherry, plum, creme de cassis with a layer of mineral and a hint of raisin, vanilla and black pepper on the smooth polished finish.

RM 90 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=275934

http://www.kalleske.com/