Glaetzer Anaperenna Barossa Valley Shiraz

Ben Glaetzer Anaperenna Barossa Valley Shiraz with BBQ Ribs

With grilled BBQ ribs, crescent rolls and balsamic buratta salad on the deck, I pulled from the cellar this aged Aussie Shiraz for the occasion. 

This is from producer/winemaker Ben Glaetzer whose family first settled in the Barossa Valley in 1888 after emigrating from Germany. They settled in a country town called Nuriootpa in the Barossa Valley where they were some of the earliest recorded viticulturalists in the Barossa Valley and Clare Valley.

Over a century later, winemaking patriarch Colin Glaetzer established Glaetzer Wines, a boutique family owned winery producing premium Barossa Valley wines. Today Colin’s son Ben carries on the wine making legacy and traditions at Glaetzer Wines.

My research and records show that the Glaetzer label "Godolphin" Shiraz Cabernet had it's name changed to Anaperenna between the 2005 and this 2006 vintage. Godolphin's Shiraz Cabernet name was changed to 'Anaperenna' due to a dispute or confusion of the name with another label from another producer.

Anaperenna is the same wine from the same producer/winemaker, from the same renowned vineyard sources with up to 85-year-old vines from the Ebenezer district in the northern Barossa Valley, considered by many as the finest sub-region in the Valley, with the same branding and symbol on the label as its predecessor.

The name Anaperenna is inspired by Anna Perenna, the Roman goddess of the New Year. Anna Perenna symbolised the year's cycle and her name translates as 'enduring year'. Romans honoured Anna Perenna with a festival held on the first full moon of the Roman calendar. On March 15th they would ask Anna to grant them longevity, and a healthy year for each glass of wine they drank on that day.

All Glaetzer labels are branded with a ancient historic Egyptian symbol. The Annaperenna label is the Egyptian Ankh (pronounced: onk). Historically the ankh symbolised sunrise, regeneration, regrowth and renewal.

We hold several vintages of several wines from the Glaetzer portfolio including their ultra-premium flagship wine, Amon-Ra.

Glaetzer "Anaperenna" (formerly GoDolphin) Barossa Valley South Australia Shiraz-Cabernet 2006 

At seventeen years, the fill level, foil, label, and importantly, the cork, as shown, were in ideal condition. This is still holding its own with life left to last perhaps another five years at the apex of its drinking window. The Cellartracker drinking window was through 2023 and as a result of tonight, I extended mine to 2025. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate wrote in 2007, "Give this classy wine 4-6 years in the cellar and enjoy it through 2030." Wine Spectator (JR) wrote in 2009, "I'd give this at least another four of five years of bottle aging."

This label release was awarded 94-97 points by Wine Advocate, 94 points by James Halliday and Wine Enthusiast, 92 points by Vinous, and 91-92 points by Wine Spectator, and Jancis Robinson gave it 18.5 on her 20 point scale (which frankly I prefer as I find it easier to encode and interpret).

Winemaker Notes - "The 2006 Shiraz (75%) – Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) "Anaperenna" is the wine formerly known as Godolphin, the change resulting from a trademark dispute. It was aged for 15 months in new French and American oak. Opaque purple, it offers a sensational bouquet of pain grille, scorched earth, meat, game, blueberry, and black currants. This is followed by a surprisingly elegant yet powerful, structured wine with gobs of spicy fruit, ripe tannins, and a plush texture. The long, 60-second finish is succulent and sweet. 

This is a blend of 75% Shiraz and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. t was aged for 15 months in new French and American oak.

Harvey Steinman of Wine Spectator artfully noted: " ... juicy currant and cedar flavors of Cabernet whistling through the blackberry and exotic spice of the Shiraz."

This is classic Aussie style Shiraz with full dark ripe fruits blackberries, plums, and blackcurrants with layers of cassis, dark chocolate, tobacco, and hints of spices.

Tonight this was completely consistent with my last tasting notes posted on 12/6/2020  when I wrote,

"Deep inky black dark garnet-purple colored, medium-full bodied, complex, intense, concentrated black berry black raspberry and blueberry fruits with notes of graphite, cassis, pain grille, vanilla, mocha and spice turning to a long lush smooth tannin laced nicely balanced oak finish."

92 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/12/trio-of-south-australia-shiraz.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=399095

https://glaetzer.com/  

@GlaetzerWines

Mollydooker "Scooter" Merlot

Mollydooker "Scooter" Merlot - whimsical label branding

Son Alec stopped by, so for casual midweek sipping with fresh fruits and some artisan cheeses, I opened from our cellar, this Aussie Merlot from a favored producer.

This is from the producer Mollydooker, who offer a brand and portfolio of whimsical labels, each featuring a cartoonish character on the label. Even the brand name, Mollydooker, which is Australian lingo for a left-handed person, is a comical play on words, named for the two left handed owner/producers/founders Sarah and Sparky Marquis. 

The 'Scooter' label is named after co-founder Sparky Marquis' racing cars which is/was his hobby. Sparky raced a big tyre scooter when he was younger.

In addition to Scooter, who adorns the Merlot label, other cartoon characters in the series of labels feature The Boxer (Shiraz), The Violinist (Verdelho), Two-Left Feet (Red Blend), The Maitre-D (Cabernet Sauvignon), and Miss Molly (sparkling Shiraz).

 
They also feature cartoonish carnival posters of their two 'Love Series' premium labels, 'Carnival of Love' and 'Enchanted Path'. We have fun collecting these wines and regularly and customarily serve the 'Love Series' labels at family occasions.

The Mollydooker "Family Series" labels features photos of  Sara Marquis' two children. The 'Blue Eyed Boy' label shows Sarah’s son Luke, shown stomping grapes as a kid, who now heads up the Mollydooker Sales Team. The Gigglepot label shows Sarah’s daughter Holly, who couldn’t stop laughing wearing some crazy black glasses. She does marketing for the Mollydooker brand. There also used to be 'Goose Bumps' sparkling Shiraz. I'm not sure where or how this fits but it appears to have been discontinued, or isn't currently available.

We collect and hold a vertical collection of Blue Eye'd Boy, their Shiraz/Syrah, as one of signature wines for our own 'blue eye'd boy', son, Alec.

Sadly, the producers founders, Sarah and Sparky Marquis have split up, Sparky departing the business, and Sarah, who is also winemaker, remaining as CEO. Interestingly, Sparky is a personal friend of my Australian colleague, with whom I interact weekly in running my global enterprise software business, my day job. They're friends and race car buddies, both owning and racing their cars on the amateur circuit down there. I'll look forward to meeting Sparky when I eventually visit down-under, once Covid subsides and business conditions warrant. I'll also look forward to visiting the winery and vineyards there. 

Mollydooker, under Sarah's leadership was awarded by Australian telcom company Telstra in the the SA Telstra Business Awards.  From the 21,000 entries, Mollydooker was not only awarded winners of the ‘Medium and Making Waves’ category, we were also named 2019 Telstra South Australian Business of the Year!

Mollydooker "Scooter" Merlot 2007

This is from Mollydooker McLaren Vale, Long Gully Road Vineyard.

Interesting, that like the 2007 Napa red we opened the other night, this vintage release of this label also rates better than any other year for this wine, according to Vivino.

Wine Advocate gave this wine 91 points.

Wow what a surprise - (wife) Linda loved this - she prefers big bold spicy, peppery wines, ala a Aussie Shiraz. The profile of this was more so, obtuse, bold fruits, than a Bordeaux Merlot varietal profile of more reserved softer fruits as used in blends to soften the more tannin and structured Cabernet. At fifteen years, this was showing nicely and seemed to be still within its prime drinking window, showing no signs of diminution from age whatsoever.

Bright ruby colored, medium full bodied, vibrant expressive red and black berry fruits accented by bold spice with notes of pepper, cedar, and hints of cassis and bitter dark mocha with a full round tannin bright acid laced finish. 

RM 89 points.   

Cellartracker members' reviews were mixed - many finding this over the top, even over the hill several years ago. Most of them consumed this a decade ago! 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=560534 

2/11/2012 - Colia wrote: 89 Points - "Still totally black and dense. Tannins are huge but soft, the fruit is a little muddled, but chocolate covered dried blueberries with a cup of doffee is pretty close. The finish is a little bitter."

6/9/2011 - ADiamond Likes this wine: 89 Points  "Big fruity, jammy wine. It went extremely well with a spicy Turkish meal. As long as you are selective as to what meal, it needs a meal, to drink this with you will love it."

1/15/2012 - tcarter Likes this wine: "Big jammy flavor coupled with leathery, earthy tones. Drinking great right now but probably best to drink this year."

5/3/2011 - ADiamond wrote: 88 Points - "A real fruit bomb, jammy, a ton of spice and boy is it hot Not a sipping wine, drink this wine with a heavy, rich meal and both will be enjoyable"

4/21/2011 - powrsurg wrote: 89 Points - "Spicy as usual. Fruity, with a strong pepper"

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=560534

https://mollydookerwines.com/

@MollydookerWine

Coopers Hawk Australian Shiraz NV

Coopers Hawk Australian Shiraz NV

With sister Jan and her daughter Jenna back from OC Cal to visit mom and me, we met for a mini-family reunion for lunch at Cooper's Hawk Restaurant and Wine Bar in Burr Ridge.

Cooper's Hawk has grown exorbitantly from their modest location in Countryside to now eight locations in Illinois, seven in Florida, a pair in Indiana, and more in Maryland, Missouri, Ohio, Virginia and Wisconsin. Their approach is an up-beat quality dining experience serving a broad selection of foods paired with a broad selection of wines. Their wines are all private labeled, sourced from grape growers around the globe, then vinted and bottled under their own branding, usually NV or non-vintage designated wines.

Cooper's Hawk wines generally are moderately priced and reasonable QPR - quality price ratio, appealing to the general marketplace, casual or non-sophisticated wine consumer. The selection is broad and offers all the styles of wine from sweet to dry, red, white, rose, sparkling and dessert wines. They market and promote a wine club and offer special bottlings for club members who also are rewarded for frequent dining. They appeal to a wide audience and are enjoying immense popularity to budget conscious frequent diners.

Our kid's Erin and Johnnie are members and frequent diners as their location in the trendy Burr Ridge Town Centre is near their home. We enjoy family dinners there due to their decent value and broad selection that offers something for everyone.

Today we tasted and then ordered a bottle of their feature selection of the month, this Australian Shiraz, branded as part of their 'International Collection'. This wine of the month selection purports on the label that the fruit was "sourced from the top vineyards in Australia and crafted exclusively for our (sic) Wine Club members."

Readers of these pages know we drink a lot of wines including a lot of Australian Shiraz. I sampled this the glass and supported ordering a bottle to accompany our meal. The painted label and citation on the rear of the bottle states, "Our Australian Shiraz is deep black purple in color and offers a mind boggling bouquet of violets, licorice, blackberries and blueberries. The wine is rich, opulent and full bodied with spice, dark fruit flavors and notes of chocolate and pipe tobacco." While I agree with their assessment of the taste profile for this wine, I might dial down the hyperbole of their qualitative assessment of the tasting experience.  They cite, "The beautifully balanced palate shows layers of sweet concentrated fruit and texture with fine-grained tannins for a long and elegant finish."

I'll let their review stand and give the wine 90 points, high praise indeed, a high QPR at their published price point of $20 per bottle.

http://www.chwinery.com/

While this is one of the better selections we have had from Cooper's Hawk, since this is a NV, non-vintage, private label bottling, there is no assurance this wine will be reproduced again to this same style or standard. Hence, each encounter there is somewhat hit or miss. Their typical consumer and diner may not be sufficiently discriminating to detect the variation over time, or care. But that's part of the adventure of the Cooper's Hawk dining and wine experience!

Killikanoon Clare Valley Blocks Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Killikanoon Clare Valley Blocks Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

I pulled this from the cellar for dinner thinking it was a Shiraz but realized it was a cab when I was trying to characterize its taste profile of firm, smoky berry fruits with firm tannin finish.

This was unbelievably delicious with Dove cherries dipped in dark chocolate. Better than the pairing with spaghetti and tomato meat sauce.

Inky black color with a dark garnet rim, medium to full bodied, firm vibrant bright complex brambly fruits of black cherry, blackberry and tones of smoky blackberry, hints of dark mocha chocolate, blueberry, vanilla and a layer of cedar on the long lingering floral and tangy dark cherry finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=447123

http://www.kilikanoon.com.au/

Henry's Drive Padthaway Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Henry's Drive Padthaway South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Like so many Australian producers, the Longbottom Family show they have a sense of humor, a bit of whimsey and honor their heritage as Henry's Drive is named after the nineteenth century mail coach driver, Henry John Hill, who drove the horse drawn stage coach that delivered passengers and mail to the property during that earlier era. Established in 1998 by Mark and Kim Longbottom, the property is in the Padthaway region in the southeast of of South Australia along what is known as the Limestone Coast. The first vines were planted at Henry's Drive in 1992. Mark passed in 2008, but Kim continues to operate the vineyards and winery in tribute to him. The postal theme is continued in the wine range with labels such as the Postmistress, Dead Letter Office and Pillar Box Red.

This wine was crafted by none other than Sara and Sparky Marquis of Marquis Philips fame from the days of this vintage, and today, producers of the Mollydooker brand of wines, famously known for their cartoonish labels and wine names. This wine seems to be following the same aging trajectory as a 2003 vintage Marquis Philips label tasted a couple of weeks ago.

Today, Henry’s Drive winemaking team is headed by Renae Hirsch who has also held winemaking positions in France, Germany, the US, in addition to Australia, in large and small scale operations

The fruit is sourced from 250 acres of Longbottom family owned estate vineyards in Padthaway, and another 30 acres planted in McLaren Vale. The vineyards are planted in Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon varietals. We've held their Shiraz, Shiraz Reserve, a Shiraz Cabernet blend, and this Cabernet Sauvignon which is no longer produced under this label. I favor their Shiraz and look forward to some day trying their flagship 'Magnus' Shiraz, a single vineyard designated wine produced as a tribute to Mark.

Drank at home with grilled steaks, its time to drink up this twelve year old as my rating has fallen off two points from my earlier reviews in '07 and '04 as the fruit is starting to diminish. Dark garnet colored with medium body, the rich ripe forward dark cherry and currant fruits are starting to give way to a layer of leather and sage, still accented by kirsch, anise, and hints of black pepper.

RM 87 points.

http://www.henrysdrive.com

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=15376

OTBN - Winners and Losers - Everybody Win(e)s

Its that time again... OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, conceived for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. OTBN was conceived by Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall St. Journal (wine@wsj.com). They realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or with a group. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because amazingly, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning. Let the fun begin. 


So I spent the morning digging around in the cellar and found many candidates. So I decided to set aside those anniversary year bottles - those of the birth-years of the kids, and other special anniversary years. Those bottles have a reason for opening and their circumstances are set.Tonight is for that bottle lacking a reason - but for its own reason its special in some way. 



Here is a selection of bottles I found that were candidates - according to the criteria that they are getting old, need to be consumed and since I've been holding them for so long, they must be worthwhile and be for waiting for a reason. Why else would there be twenty, thirty-five (41 actually) year old bottles languishing down in the cellar!?! Several Bordeaux - two from 1982 - okay set those aside - birth year of #1 son, a 1975, and a 1970 - okay high school graduation year.. tonight?

Okay, so here is my runner-up for OTBN 2011 - a 1978 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon - it certainly must be time to drink this, ya? Fill level looks good, there is hope... 

Here is my selection for OTBN 2011 -  Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1978 .

More to follow as the saga/evening unfolds and the OTBN selection (s) is unveiled - er uncorked !

 

 Final Flight - OTBN Selection -  Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1978, Jordan Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1978, Cliff Lede Howell Mtn Chardonnay 2004, Freemark Abbey Edelwein Johannisberg Riesling Late Harvest Gold 1999,  Domaine Bruco Clair Cazetiers Premiere Cru Gevrey Chambertin Borgnogne 1993 and Freemark Abbey Bosche Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1986 (brought by Bill), Redheads Studio Return of the Living Red Cabernet Touriga NV (brought by Dan), and Clarendon Hills Baker's Gully Vineyard Clarendon Syrah 2003.

The wines accompanied a dinner of beef tenderloin, medallions of lobster, twice baked potato, and salad, followed by fresh fruits and chocolate fondue. Starters included artisan cheeses - Fair Oaks Farm five year old aged sharp cheddar,  blueberry infused goat cheese, and a selection of olives. Attendees were Rick & Linda, Bill & Beth, Dr Dan & Linda, and Lyle and Terry.

Most Interesting Bottle - Redheads Studio - Return of the Living Red N.V. - RM 91 points - 

Interesting blend of NV (non-vintage) Australian Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga, a 'lost' varietal - hence the name. Dark garnet color, full bodied, thick chewy, almost shiraz like coating the tongue - forward black and blue fruits, ripe black raspberry turns to a tone of spice, hint of cedar and kirsch on a full, moderate soft chewy tannin finish. Brought by Dr Dan. The bottle was a gift from his brother. 

Clarendon Hills Baker's Gully Vineyard Clarendon Syrah 2003 - RM 91 points: Dark garnet inky color. Full bodied, thick chewy, almost coating the tongue - forward black and blue fruits, ripe black raspberry turns to a tone of spice, hint of cedar and kirsch with a slight metallic/mineral undertone - ends with a full, moderate soft chewy tannin finish.

Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1978  - RM 88 Points - Medium bodied - slight opaciity - garnet color - subdued black cherry fruit was overtaken by leather and a subtle tone of cigar box tobacco turning to anise on the moderate finish. Surprisingly moderate in density, color, fruit and finish. I remember buying this bottle on release (for $11.99) I have one more bottle left - the fill level was good and the cork fine although starting to be a bit soft. Still life left but I don't see long longevity in this wine

Jordan Vineyard & Winery Estate Bottled Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1978 - RM 88 Points.Opened two hours and it wasn't ready to drink although was approachable - it needed four or five hours to open and truly reveal itself ... fill level was good - low neck - cork was firm and tight - moderate garnet and slightly brownish color with slight opacity - medium bodied. After the funk wore off the subdued fruit of black berry and black cherry started to show - offset by leather, tobacco, hints of anise and tar on a modest finish. Nearing if not at end of life but not yet deteriorated. Still bears the original price tag of $19.95 although I don't remember purchasing this bottle. A perfect selection fitting the occasion OTBN. Given its age I was surprised it held up as well as it did. Another testament to the provenance and suitability of our cellar to age wines for decades. Lyle picked this as his favorite!   http://cellartracker.com/w?64348

Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Bosché Vineyard 1986 - RM 90 points. Dark purple color - medium - full bodied. Surprising vibrancy, breadth and depth to this 25 year old! Full forward fruit of black raspberry, black berry, and black cherry with a subtle tart tone, hints of leather and anise with moderate well integrated tannins on a lingering finish. Perhaps the surprise of the OTBN evening.  

Domaine Bruco Clair Cazetiers Premiere Cru Gevrey Chambertin Borgnogne 1993

Freemark Abbey Edelwein Johannisberg Riesling Late Harvest Gold 1999 - RM 90 - Weak tea colored, medium-full bodied honey citrus flavors - slightly more subdued than last tasting two years ago, with a slight smokey finish.

2006 Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz

2006 Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz

(Australia, South Australia, Far North, Southern Flinders Ranges)

RM 92 points: Dark garnet inky color - full bodied. Mouthful of forward chewy spicy ripe plum, blackberry, blueberry and notes of licorice coat the tongue, toasty oak and a layer of vanilla almond on the full long, pure finish. Slight heat and mineral edge is subsiding but detracts from the fruit a bit. Not quite as smooth as the 2005 vintage but delicious none-the-less.