Showing posts with label Two Hands. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Two Hands. Show all posts

Saturday, February 29, 2020

OTBN 2020 ~ Open That Bottle Night

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2020

Another year has passed and despite the leap year, the last Saturday night in February is time for - OTBN - Open That Bottle Night.  This is the 21st year for the annual event wine bachanalia, originally conceived by  Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, is for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  


Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. Gaiter and Brecher realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because so often, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not.

This year we passed the baton to Dan and Linda to host OTBN. All the 'Pour Boys' were in attendance along with Eric and Cathy from Indy and Bill and Beth coming back from their new winter haven in Charleston for the occasion. We were able to get together the evening before for a OTBN warm-up and preview. Thank you, Dan and Linda for hosting OTBN 20.

Dan and Linda put out a spectacular spread of bacon wrapped figs, shrimp scampi, a vast selection of artisan cheeses, olives, proscuitto, smoked salmon, candied bacon, fresh fruits and vegetables, truffles spreads, dips and other hors d'oeuvres


For the pre-dinner wine flight there was a broad selection of Champagnes and white wines: 

Sebastien Dampt Chablis Chardonnay 2017
Y de Yquem Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 2017 
Krug Clos du Mesmil Champagne 2004
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut La Grande Dame 2008
Sea Smoke Gratis Chardonnay 2008


For dinner, Dan and Linda served beef tenderloin, baked ham, brussel sprouts and tortelini in cheese and truffle garlic sauce. 

The broad wine flight was Bordeaux varietal centric from Napa Valley with a duo of Shiraz' from Australia and Walla Walla, Washington, and a Vintage Port. 

Dunn Family Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997
Caymus Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1996
Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 
FontanaFredda Lazzarito Barolo 2008
Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1989
Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Opus One Red Blend 1996
Cliff Lede Cinnamon Rhapsody Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Godspeed Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Two Hands Lily's Garden Barossa Shiraz 2010
Cayuse "Bionic Frog" Walla Walla Valley Syrah 2012 
Grahams Vintage Port 2000


As always, the beginning of the event is spent determining the order of the tasting. This is part of the fun of the event, but also essential, because if the tasting is not done in proper order, the wines will be significantly less enjoyable and less appreciated. 

As with most years, as the evening progressed we validated our initial lineup and only made but a few very minor adjustments. Getting it right is due to experience in tasting these wines over time and over their many stages of aging. Its somewhat amazing how close we get the tasting order right, how few adjustments we make over the evening, and what a remarkable difference it makes in the enjoyment of the wines.

We started the flight with straight up Cabernets, expecting them to be simpler, more singularly dimensional and less complex than the blends. We also started with the older vintages as their sprites would likely be more subdued from aging and thus harder to discern. Later in the tasting they would be overshadowed by the heavier more complex wines.

Some of the highlights of the evening:

Dunn Family Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

I brought this from our cellar as a classic OTBN wine, one that begs for an occasion that may never seem ready to drink.

Our Cellartracker records indicate we hold no less than thirty-one vintages of Dunn Vineyards cabernets dating back to 1981. We visited Dunn Vineyards estate high atop Howell Mountain and met the legendary winemaker Randy Dunn back during our Napa Wine Experience 2008.
 
My notes from an earlier tasting of this label: I opened and decanted this and a Howell Mtn about four hours before dinner. The Howell crumbled but the Napa cork was perfect, as it were a two year old! Neither this or the Howell showed any sign of aging. Very Bordeaux like with dark inky garnet/purple colored, medium to full bodied, complex and balanced black berry fruits with tones of lead pencil, tea, tobacco and hints of cedar and leather with acidity turning to modest tannins on the moderate finish. 


I've written often about the much heralded '97 vintage for Napa Cabernets and how they seem to never be ready to drink. Alas, tonight this long-lived label was indeed showing its age and perhaps has reached a point where it is revealing its true character and profile. It may finally be the right time for this release.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, black fruits accented by graphite, tobacco, mushroom, leather and anise, firm but approachable tannins on a smooth acidic finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=7960


Caymus Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

We tasted this earlier in the order because Caymus tends to be rather lighter than the mountain fruit of the Diamond Creek, and we wanted to pair or match the two Insignias together.

Ernie brought this as a mini-horizontal to compare with the '96 Opus that he also brought from his cellar.

We're longtime fans of Caymus and consider it a classic Napa Cab for consistent quality drinking and early gratification, although don't necessarily consider it one for long term aging.  Linda and I visited the Napa Estate during our Napa Wine Experience in 2018.

In 2011, I noted this wine in a tasting note: "This wine was opened two and a half hours ahead of time and burst with floral on initial tasting. Dark garnet color and medium bodied. Predominant throughout in the tasting, the bright vivid floral perfume highlighted the soft delicate nicely integrated fruits, harmoniously balanced and polished - currants, black cherry, subtle hints of vanilla, oak, spice, milk chocolate and cigar box with a moderate tannin lingering floral finish. At fifteen years old, this wine showed no sign of deterioration or diminution. After initial moments of brilliance, the fruit later fell off to slightly tart black cherry with a subtle leather finish took over, still accented by dusty rose petals and floral." At that time I gave this 93 points.

Tonight, at 24 years, this seemed to be a bit past its prime and was showing a diminution of the fruit, devolving into more raisin and prune notes.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1655

Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006


Bill brought this from his cellar and we looked for a Red Rock Terrace singe vineyard designated label in my cellar for a comparison by I didnt have one that wasnt being held for special birthyear celebrations. 

We visited Diamond Creek Vineyards with Bill and Beth for a private tasting back in 2011, then again at the Diamond Creek Open House and Release Tasting in 2017 with them and Dan and Linda for the Release  Party and Open House at the Estate. 

This release was awarded 93 points by Connoisseurs Guide. 

Bills Cellartracker notes on this bottle: "Complex, layered and rich. Shared this on OTBN and it was spectacular. Deep indigo in color. Nose of damp leaves and earth...very Bordeaux like. On the palate, blackberry, blueberry and plum up front; coffee, chocolate and eucalyptus on the mid palate; medium, silky tannins, a touch of oak and leather on a lingering finish. This will certainly last longer but is certainly at peak right now."

My notes - This was elegant, bordering on exotic, dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex with concentrated black berry and black currant fruits accented with layers of coffee, vanilla, caramel and notes of cedar. 


RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=579477

Godspeed Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Eric brought this along with a couple of whimsical labels. We visited Godspeed together along with Bill and Beth up on Mt Veeder during our Napa Valley Mt Veeder Wine Experience 2011 when we tasted and Eric likely acquired this label. 

My tasting notes from a tasting back in 2016 for this label follow.

Dark blackish purple/garnet colored, medium-full bodied, aromatic, black berry and black raspberry fruit flavors, a bit tight and firmly structured with tones of truffle and spice with hints of cedar, tobacco and green pepper, turning to moderate tannins on the long finish.

RM 90 points.  

Bill wrote a note on it back in 2012: "Nice quaffable wine. Evidences bright fruit typical of Mt. Veeder cabs. Medium bodied, garnet in color, a bit of clove on the nose but not terribly complex."

WCC 86 points. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/12/godspeed-mt-veeder-cabernet-sauvignon.html 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1106764

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend Cabernet Sauvignon 1989

This is one of Dan's signature wines in his cellar. Knowing Dan was going to serve an Insignia, I pulled from our cellar this aged thirty year old Insignia for a mini-vertical comparison.  Our visit and private tasting at the fabulous Robert Phelps Estate was one of the highlights of our Pour Boys Napa Wine Experience in 2017.

This release was awarded  91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. I found and acquired several bottles of this release in the library cellar at Kahn's Wines in Indianapolis several years ago and had been waiting for the right occasion to serve - a perfect candidate for OTBN. 

Some Cellartracker notes ...fellow tasters' notes summed it up well, similar to our experience.

Getting a bit lighter shade of garnet in the glass, no bricking at all. Cork was saturated to about 3/4 of the way and soft, glad to open this now. Slight earthy cedar on the nose, on the palate orange peel, slight honey, mushrooms, most of the fruit has faded Ito the background, with an extended finish.

Color: dark red core, a little bricking at the edges but not too much
Nose: aromas of mint, pencil lead, green bell pepper, a touch of leather and spicy currants and plums


Palate: the pencil lead and green bell pepper lead the way over the palate, with currants, spice, and earthy notes that trail and add complexity. The tannins were fine, but still present, especially at the end of the finish.

 
Garnet colored, slightly opaque, this was medium bodied, lighter than I expected, with dark berry fruits, notes of anise, spice, plums and currants. A mere shadow of the bigger, more concentrated and fruit filled 2006, not due to age, but likely indicative of a lesser vintage and perhaps lesser selection of the fruits.

The '89 release was a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc from 79% estate & 21% grower vineyards: 79% Banca Dorada Vineyard (Rutherford) and 21% Oakville growers.

Robert Parker gave this release 91 points in 2013. 

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=14182

https://www.josephphelps.com/

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

This was one of the highlights of the evening in my book, perhaps the best bottle of the tasting (of the Bordeaux varietals). As I noted above, our visit to the Phelps magnificent estate was one of the highlights of our Napa Wine Experience in 2017 when we did a private tasting together.

This is a Bordeaux Blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot from 100% estate-grown Napa Valley vineyards: South Napa (33% Suscol Vineyard), Stags Leap District (17% Barboza Vineyard and 12% Las Rocas Vineyard), Rutherford (20% Banca Dorada Vineyard), St. Helena (10% Home Ranch Vineyard) and Oak Knoll District (8% Yountville Vineyard). 

This vintage was awarded 95 points by Connoisseurs Guide, 94 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast, and 92 points by James Suckling and Vinous.

The winemaker's notes: The opaque, inky color of the 2006 Insignia is followed by concentrated aromatics of lush black fruit, graphite, coffee, dark cocoa powder, licorice, and cola syrup. The flavor density and tannin balance integrate beautifully for a long, layered finish.

This was dark garnet colored, full bodied, deep, concentrated, plush, ripe dark blackberry and dark currant fruits with complex but wonderfully balanced tones of mocha, tea, creosote and oak with smooth polished tannins on a nice smooth finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1448201

https://www.josephphelps.com/

Opus One Bordeaux Blend 1996

Opus One was founded as a joint venture between Mouton Rothschild and Robert Mondavi, the two  first growth brands of Bordeaux and Napa Valley respectively. The first release in 1984 was the its first vintage, the 1979. It has since become an international luxury Bordeaux-style blend cult wine, produced at the iconic landmark Napa Valley winery comprising 169 acres of vineyard on the Route du Cabernet, St Helena Highway Rt 29, across from the legendary landmark Robert Mondavi winery.

We visited the classic Opus Estate and Chateau in Napa,  back during what at the time was billed as our fourth Napa Wine Experience in 1998. It was served as one of the feature wines of our winemaker dinner that year.

I must admit, I have yet to taste an Opus that has lived up to its lofty stratospheric reputation expectations. I can only link that underachievement to the fact we have drunk the vintages too young, and perhaps also didn't serve them with the proper reverence they demand and deserve, opening several hours before serving and decanting appropriately. Or, perhaps it is the lofty price that raises the expectations. Also, these super premium wines are noted not for their obtuse angles or highlights, but often by their uniformity and singularity as they tend to be flawless and thus highlighted by the moderation and lack of any distractions.We see this later with the Bionic Frog from Cayuse as well.

This vintage release was awarded 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 93 points by Decanter, 92 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar and 90 points by Vinous.

The 1996 blend included Malbec, which first became a component of Opus One in 1994, and it was the last Opus One not to include any Petit Verdot, a grape that has been part of the blend ever since 1997. 

My Cellartracker records indicate we drank our last bottle of this release back in 2013 when I wrote: "The '96 Opus was dark inky purple colored, medium to full bodied. It opened with a huge nose, reminiscent of a classic Margaux from the mid-eighties. Elegant, complex, smooth and polished it was a symphony of black fruit flavors accented by harmonious tones of leather, tobacco, lead pencil and soft tones of cassis and a hint of mocha. Decanted, over the course of the evening the fruit became slightly muted giving way to classic left bank Bordeaux earthy leather, but never losing its harmonious balance. The fragrant finish continued to linger for minutes." I gave it a 94 points rating then. Perhaps tonight we didn't serve it appropriately to so as to reveal its true potential. 

Dark garnet/purple colored, complex, medium-full bodied, harmonious and balanced, silky smooth, elegant, polished but somewhat subdued blackberry and black currant fruits accented by cassis, plums, leather, with hints of mocha chocolate, tar, leather, tobacco and fresh herbs, finishing with dusty tannins and excellent balanced lingering length.

RM 92 points. 

Cliff Lede Cinnamon Rhapsody Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Billl is a big Cliff Lede fan and member of their club so he gets these limited production, single vineyard selections, which he kindly shares with special friends, Thank you. Our visit and private tasting with Bill and Beth at the Cliff Lede estate was highlight of our Napa Wine Experience in 2009.

WWC's notes on this release - Another contribution to OTBN along with an ‘06 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace. Very different from the RRT but delicious in its own way, Medium to dark garnet in color. Nose contains mostly floral notes with a hint of earthiness. Bright, jammy, red raspberry and blackberry up front; a bit of sharpness that I have come to expect from Stags Leap along with a bigger mouthfeel on the mid palate; a long, warm, oaky finish with grippy tannins.

This release got 93 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 91 points from Wine Spectator. 

This was a blend of  85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec and 1% Merlot.

This was my second wine of the evening behind the Insignia of the Bordeaux varietals.

This was dark garnet colored medium-full bodied with black berry fruits accented by notes of cassis, spice and earth tones.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1352710

Cayuse "Bionic Frog" Walla Walla Valley Syrah 2012

John always brings a most imaginative and rare label to OTBN and this year was no exception. This is one of the classic cult labels from the iconic Walla Walla producer Cayuse.

We stopped at the Cayuse tasting room during our Walla Walla Wine Experience last fall and there posted on the door a sign that said "Sold Out", with instructions on how to contact them if you were seeking to pick up your allocation.

This release got 99 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 96 points Wine Enthusiast, 95 points from Vinous, 94 points from Wine Spectator, and 17/20 points from Jancis Robinson.

Like another near perfect rated Syrah we tasted recently, the iconic Penfolds Grange from a classic vintage of the century, 1990, rather than being a blockbuster, this impressed us with its subtlety and level flawlessness.

Dark inky purple garnet colored, full bodied, intense rich concentrated black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by notes of pepper, cassis, smoke and dried meat or what one Cellartracker tasted noted as tapenade.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1683790

https://cayusevineyards.com/static/wines-bionic-frog.aspx

Two Hands Lily's Garden Barossa Shiraz 2010

Lyle brought this Aussie Shiraz from his cellar and it overshadowed the Bionic Frog with its bright brilliant bold fruit. The difference is it being more single dimensional. I describe the difference in such wines and being a foot wide and a ten feet deep versus the Bionic Frog being much more complex and multi-dimensional at five feet wide and five feet deep. 

This was one of the biggest and brightest wines of the night, but a bit obtuse relatively, less polished and balanced than the other top performers, the Insignia, Cliff Lede and Cayuse.  

This got 93 points from Wine Spectator, 92 points from Stephen Tanzer's Wine Cellar and 91 points from Wine Advocate.

Dark inky purple garnet colored, bright rich concentrated blackberry, black raspberry and cherry fruits with clove spice, mocha chocolate, expresso and menthol. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1367474

Grahams Vintage Port 2000

It is customary in these events that Lyle brings a vintage port from his collection. In recent years he has been disappointed by the showing of several labels, although the rest of us were not. Tonights selection was wonderful and met the highest expectations for the brand and the vintage. This may have been the best showing and best representation of a port in all our years of tasting together. 



At twenty years this was clearly at its prime but is perhaps only half way through its drinking window. What fun it will be to monitor this label as it ages, if you're fortunate enough to have acquired several bottles.


This iconic release got 98 points from  James Suckling and Wine Spectator, 94 from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate,  

James Suckling of Wine Spectator said, "This is the greatest glass of Graham I have ever tasted, young or old." It was recognized in the Top 100 of 2003 at No. 9, Collectibles.

The 2000 vintage produced a very tiny crop, just 650 g per vine on average (they usually harvest 850 g per vine from Malvedos – their lowest yielding, most consistently cropping quinta). That said, the fruit was rich and concentrated. 

Saturated black-ruby colored, full-bodied, superripe, powerful, huge, dense and rich black fruits,  yet balanced and smooth, opulent yet elegant, notes of mocha bitter chocolate and licorice and cassis, the finish lasts for minutes going on and on on your palate. 

This is what a vintage port is supposed to taste like and this is a benchmark standard bearer. 

RM 97 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=192

 
Previous Pour Boys OTBN Events

Wednesday, October 11, 2017

Branson Coach House Shiraz Single Vineyard Greenock Block 2004

Branson Coach House Shiraz Single Vineyard Greenock Block 2004

We pulled this Branson Coach House Barossa Valley Shiraz for a full flavored but smooth casual sipper with some cheese and biscuits. I bought everything they had in stock when I tasted this at Binny's Glen Ellyn wine desk upon release many years ago. Wish I had more as this is aging and drinking quite nicely at a dozen years of age.

This property was taken over by Two Hands after the passing of proprietor Malcolm Asden, the result being these wines are now made alongside Two Hands by their winemaker Matt Wenk. The acquisition was made possible by capital from outside foreign investors.

Along with the winery and brand came eighteen acres of Greenock vineyards planted in mature high quality shiraz which will continue to be produced under the BCH label. Subsequently, Two Hands wine production is also done at the BCH Greenock facility.

Two Hands developed a range of premium Shiraz sourced from high quality fruit they acquired from top growers' prime locations, eventually growing and branching out to acquire their own vineyard in Barossa and now their own winery.

They'll continue to produce BCH premium single vineyard designated labels Coach House Block Rare Single Vineyard and Greenock Block Single Vineyard sourced from the vineyards that surround the winery.

 Dark inky purple color, full bodied, thick, chewy layers of aromatic flavors of tangy black fruits, raspberry, black cherry and notes of blueberry, accented by tones of clove spice, graphite & hints of creme de cassis on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545

 RM 92 points.

Friday, January 1, 2016

Freemark Abbey Cabernets 1997 Vintage Horizontal Tasting Dinner

Freemark Abbey Cabernets 1997 Vintage Horizontal Tasting Highlights Festive Holiday Celebration Dinner

The 1997 vintage was the theme for festive New Year's Eve dinner hosted by friends and fellow 'pour boy' Bill and Beth C, with Freemark Abbey being the headliner. Bill dipped in to his vertical collection to pull 1997 vintage bottles of Freemark Abbey Bosché and Sycamore Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignons. From our cellar I brought the Estate from the same vintage. And, to round out the horizontal tasting, I also brought a 1997 vintage Cornerstone Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon. The results were an amazing tasting experience.

Beth prepared a wonderful delicious dinner of beef tenderloin, cream spinach and onions, wild rice pilaf and corn pudding.

At this point, I should ask forgiveness for my obsessiveness in this analysis of these tasting results. This is what makes wine tasting fun for geeks like me (us), and perhaps so mysterious or annoying for the 'un' or less interested pedestrian bystander. This leads to, and is fed by deep and long experience in tasting these wines over a period of, and of wines from, literally, decades of time and vintages.

We've visited the Freemark Abbey winery and met the winemaker and owners on numerous occasions. Tonight's tasting will add another chapter in our many memorable experiences and stories of tasting Freemark Abbey wines.


The results of our tasting were so consistent, I had to check my palate discrimination to see if perhaps I was impaired from medications I am taking from recent oral surgery.

Remarkably, all four Cabs exhibited a similar tasting flavor profile and signature, aligned serially in a gradation of weight and firmness along the same plane.

Also, interestingly, all four wines exhibited the same aging state or condition relative to the effects of their aging, being from the same vintage, and having had the same provenance. Indeed, upon opening, all four of the corks showed identical near perfection in their condition - still moist, firm, and clear of any diminution or seepage whatsoever - a testament to Bill's and our cellars and handling!

There is also a commentary here on the 1997 vintage and its ageability - all the wines showed 2015 as beyond or nearing the end of their drinking window. Yet, none of the wines were beyond their prime and were well within their drinking window, albeit none will likely improve with further aging at this stage of their life. The much heralded, arguably over-rated vintage is still drinking well at eighteen years, and may just now be revealing its true and native character.

The tasting profile for all four Cabs was remarkably consistent - firm, tight concentrated black currant fruit predominating accented with tones of black raspberry, tea and graphite highlights. Only the Estate Cabernet deviated with tones of bright cherry and red fruit competing with the black currant layer. None of the wines showed any diminution or adverse effects from their eighteen years in bottle aging.

All four Cabernets were concentrated, firm, tightly wound with bright focused fruits with gradations along the plane in terms of firmness, tightness and smoothness or polish. The order from low to high in relative weighting were: Estate, Sycamore, Bosché, then Cornerstone.

Perhaps what is even more remarkable is the fact that while three of the Cabs are from the same producer and label, two are from specific vineyards, the only common element being the vintage. It is possible that some of the same fruit from Bosche and Sycamore are blended into the Estate, but not likely much between the two. But, there is no explanation aside common vintage for the similarity between the Cornerstone and Freemark Abbey offerings.

All that said, paradoxical to the tasting observations was the lack of consistency in the color of the four wines, which was very diverse indeed, from ruby colored to dark garnet to inky black - yet with the same taste profiles as noted, across the range.

As always, I write these notes and set these conclusions based on memory, and our shared perceptions or interpretations expressed during the tasting session, but with no forethought, bias or influence from third party ratings or rankings. Only after I produce this commentary do I go back and review and compare other notes on the wines. Remarkably, my conclusions here are bolstered by and consistent with the community of contributors to Cellartracker and beyond.

The Cabernet flight:

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Medium bodied, deep ruby colored, bright vibrant expressive cherry fruit highlighted by tones of black currant and black raspberry, hints of black tea, tobacco, graphite and notes of anise and oak on the lingering moderate tannin finish.
RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2231

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Sycamore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Medium to full bodied, dark garnet colored, tightly wound and firm yet nicely balanced, smooth and polished, concentrated black currant and black raspberry fruits highlighted by tones of black tea, tobacco, kirsch, graphite and notes of cola, anise and oak on the lingering moderate tannin finish.
RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1411584

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Bosché Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Medium to full bodied, black ink colored, complex, tightly wound, firm and concentrated yet nicely balanced, expressive black berry, black raspberry and currant fruits highlighted by tones of black tea, tobacco, graphite and notes of cola, kirsch, anise and oak with hints of mocha on the lingering moderate tannin finish.
RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=10205

Cornerstone Cellars Cornerstone Vineyard Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

The biggest of the flight, medium to full bodied, dark garnet colored, complex, tightly wound, firm and concentrated yet nicely balanced, expressive black berry, black raspberry and currant fruits highlighted by tones of black tea, tobacco, graphite and notes of anise and oak on the lingering firm tannin finish.
RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1416835

There was some interesting confusion regarding this bottle. Based on my cellar records that showed this as Cornerstone Howell Mountain Cabernet 1997, I had advised Bill that was what I would bring to dinner. My records also showed that I had already consumed Cornerstone Vineyard Oakville Cabernet 1997 as well as bottle (s) of Cornerstone Cellars Beatty Ranch Vineyard Cabernet 1997. Since the bottle was wrapped in original packaging tissue paper, I didn't see the actual label until its unveiling at dinner tonight when it turned out to be this Cornerstone Vineyard variant. I have some other Cornerstone 1997 Cabernet (s) in the cellar, also wrapped in tissue. I now wonder which variant they are. 

Leading up to dinner, Bill served two releases, variations of 2012 Sea Smoke Sea Spray Santa Rita Hills Pinot Blend Sparkling Wine - 'standard' label and a follow on LD - 'late disgorged' label. Starter courses included shrimp cocktail and a medley of three artisan cheeses with crackers and biscuits. 

What an interesting comparison in two release variations of this label, revealing much greater diversity than one might expect. Bill's notes on the two offerings. 

Sea Smoke Sea Spray Blanc De Noir L. D. (Late Disgorged) Santa Rita Hills Pinot Blend Sparkling Wine 2012 

"Drank this along side last years original 2012 Sea Spray and the difference was a huge surprise. The LD was drier, more polished and complex, building on the fruit and brightness of the original 2012. Definitely my preferred style."

WC 92 points. 



Sea Smoke Sea Spray Blanc De Noir Santa Rita Hills Pinot Blend Sparkling Wine 2012

"Consistent with earlier notes, this opens with light strawberry and cherry on thepalate with a bit of toast on the finish. What was interesting is that we drank side by side with the newly arrived Sea Spray 2012 Late Disgorged. Surprisingly there was a noticeable difference with the LD showing more polish and complexity. The LD was drier for a start and had an additional yeasty layer that I believe, created the polish. The LD was definitely my preferred style and I was quite surprised by the difference."
WC 89 points. 

Bill is more discerning and discriminating in reviewing these wines. While the difference was certainly discernible, my rating for the standard label would have been only a point, maybe two, less than the LD follow on.

Following dinner, Beth served chocolate cake and chocolate pecan pie. With the dessert course, Lyle brought and served Two Hands Lily's Garden Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2012, a great accompaniment to the course. We love this style of wine and with its full bodied, rich, concentrated thick tongue coating fruit, it can be a meal all in of itself! I would have loved to have tasted this opposite the cheese course and salad, to focus on the intense fruits. But the Sea Smoke was great there too. A wealth of riches tonight in our selection on offer.

 Two Hands Lily's Garden McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012

To say these wines are big is such an understatement, but hyperbole doesn't due justice to this big bruiser with its 16.5% alcohol. From the Two Hands super-premium, single vineyard collection, this classic McLaren Shiraz is named after producer co-owner Michael Welftree's daughter Lily born in August 2001. With our affinity for, and appreciation for such devotion and family orientation, I'll cast a different lens on this label in the future.

Big, full bodied, dark inky purple color, plush, rich, concentrated thick tongue coating, black and blue berry fruit compote and coulis accented by a layer of spice, gravelly mineral, tones of mocha and black pepper with oak on the chewy tannin laced lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1795068

Saturday, September 12, 2015

Cityscape Syrah Zin BBQ Ribs Wine Dinner 2015

2015 Cityscape Wine on the deck Features Syrah Zinfandel with BBQ Ribs Dinner

Our 'pour boys' wine group dinner was hosted by Lyle and Terry for their third wine night on the deck with cityscape views.

The theme for the evening was set for Syrah and Zinfandel to accompany their bar-b-cue rib dinner preparation. Their west loop residence features an extraordinary deck with cityscape views of the Willis (Sears) Tower (looming in background as shown left) and the west loop neighborhood.

The spectacular mid-September evening provided a perfect clear cloudless sky and comfortable evening. This was a replay of the success of last years event of the same theme. As usual, like the previous two years, Terry and prepared an wonderful dinner ideally suited for the wine theme - bar-b-cue ribs, potatoes, green beans, salad, cornbread, corn, followed by home-made profiteroles with ice cream, chocolate and caramel sauces.

Before dinner there was a selection of artisan cheeses, shrimp, grilled scallops, dips, nuts and olive trays. These complimented several champagne, sparkling and other white wine selections.

The main dinner wine flight ... (pictured below):


As usual we went through our ritual of placing the flight tasting order based on the anticipated weight, sweetness and complexity of the wines. Once set, the wines are opened and tasted to calibrate their appropriate tasting order. For me, this is almost the highlight of such evenings, determining the tasting order, but also testing knowledge and perceptions of the wines and vintages and their respective tasting profiles. As usual we had the basic order generally correct, but made a few modifications based on the tasting results. Shown above is the original expected order. 

Surprisingly, as a result of the tasting, the Killikanoon Oracle moved to the farthest right most position - signifying it as being the biggest and most complex wine, subsequently to be tasted last, so as to overpower a 'lesser' (lighter, less complex) wine. This was remarkable considering the previous tasting experiences of the other four 'big syrahs'.

Surprisingly, the Chateau Tanunda 100 year old vines Shiraz moved a couple places to the left although it compared favorably with the others. 

The wine flight in tasting order:

Domaine Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet 1999
Niner Wine Estate Boot Jack Ranch Paso Robles Syrah 2006
Robert Biale Black Chicken Napa Valley Zinfandel 2011
Regusci Napa Valley Stags Leap District Zinfandel 2010
Outpost Napa Valley Howell Mountain Zinfandel 2012

The Big Shiraz flight ...

Two Hands  Bella's Garden Barossa Shiraz 2012
Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2008
Clarendon Hills  Astralas Shiraz 2007
Clarendon Hills Piggot Ranges Shiraz 2004 
Killikanoon Clare Valley Oracle Shiraz 2004

And after dinner with dessert and for casual sipping:

Antoine Alard Chateau Theulet Monbazzilac 1998
Chateau Breustet Saunterne Bordeaux 2001
Grahams Vintage Port 1991, 2000
The Zinfandel flight also included the Niner Paso Robles Syrah which exhibited a profile more aligned with those wines. The Regusci and Biale compared similarly while, not surprisingly, the Outpost stood out with its Howell Mountain terroir showing bigger forward mountain fruit with that classic bramble tight firmness with a creosote anise layer. 

The standout of the evening for me was the Killikanoon Oracle, which I expected to show well as it is one of my favorite wines. It showed dark inky purple, intense, rich, thick, full bodied, forward fruit of blueberry, ripe plum and blackberry, violet floral, and a hint of anise on the finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=234312

Big Aussie Syrah flight ...
I brought the Oracle to compare in a mini-horizontal 2004 against the Clarendon Hills Piggott Range Clarendon Syrah which I expected to mirror the profile but perhaps exhibit even bigger, more forward firm concentrated fruits, which it did, but less so than the Oracle.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=153424

The Piggot Range exhibited a rich dark purple color, full bodied, and full smooth polished aromas and flavors of raspberries, blueberry, blueberries and smoked meat with notes of spice and floral elements with hints of oak with nicely integrated silky tannins on the lingering finish. It was more lean than the full throttle thick rich version I tasted a couple vintages back. It's certainly ready to drink, and doesn't appear it will improve any with age.. probably certainly at its apex and needs to be consumed .. but I'd say no need to hurry .. has a couple years left ....

Dan brought the ultra-premium Clarendon Hills Astralis also provided an interesting comparison between the two Clarendon Hills' labels since they no doubt contain fruit sourced from the same sites.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=94812

Ernie brought Chateau Tanunda from his cellar. I've written herein about us capturing nine OWC three packs of this wine - the entire allocation of this wine for midwest America during the Wine Spectator Grand Tour a few years ago. This wine continues to be a staple of our big syrah tastings that we all enjoy. 

Chateau Tanunda "The Chateau" 100 Year Old Vines Eden Valley Barossa Shiraz

We discovered this wine at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago when it was being poured by Chateau Tanunda's Dagmar O'Neill. Only 100 cases were produced. We orchestrated a purchase of nine three packs in OWC's (shown below) which we split amongst the 'pour boys' wine team, pictured below.

The Barossa is home to some of the world’s oldest Shiraz vines and the grapes for this wine come from hundred year old vines from a high altitude, one acre single vineyard in the Eden Valley.



The 'pour boys' sighted at WS
Grand Tour
Full bodied, complex, concentrated, full lingering tannins predominate the dense, black and blue berry fruits with hints of licorice, plum, spice and spicy oak.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673

http://www.chateautanunda.com/

Grahams Vintage Port 1991, 2000
 
Lyle was concerned that his beloved Grahams Vintage Port 1991 was diminished and entering the later stage of its drinking window. He acquired a case of this wine and has been enjoying it over the decades but was concerned about its recent change in its profile. The consensus of the group was that is was fine, aging normally and gracefully, simply showing it natural aging maturation. We're all getting older! 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=21593

Saturday, November 23, 2013

Bad Impersonator vs Flinders Run Shiraz - Reveals Hint in Wine Reviews

Bad Impersonator Reveals Hint in Wine Reviews - Pair of Aussie Shiraz' for hearty Angeli's Italian Dinner

With son Alec home from NYC/Hoboken for the weekend and holiday, and Aunt Dr Pat visiting for the weekend, our Italian fest this week continues with another dinner at Angeli's, our local neighborhood Italian eatery. Tonight, we shed the Italian wine for a pair of big bold fruit filled Aussie Shiraz' from Flinders Run and Two Hands 'Bad Impersonator' Single Vineyard Shiraz. Perhaps this comparison is a lesson in the subtleties of reading wine reviews. (See my earlier Winesite page on Wine reviewers and reviewers).

Two Hands Bad Impersonator Shiraz 2005


From a perennial top rated Shiraz producer, Two Hands, comes this single vineyard select label with the whimsical name 'Bad Impersonator' and faux Groucho label artwork. The winemaker writes - The charm of this label is the fact that it is not typical of Barossa Shiraz at all, it is the most finicky but perhaps one of the most interesting wines that Two Hands makes. The fruit comes from a single vineyard of mature vines on deep red sand at the top of Kalimna Road near Angaston in the Barossa Valley.

Winemaker notes - 
"Deep purple black in color to the core. Lifted notes of charcoal and dark cherry emerge from the glass, followed by some excellent spice and dark plum, complex and interesting. The palate starts out focused with great definition and weight. Pronounced flavors of warm chocolate cake, licorice and blackcurrant explode over the palate. The highlight of this wine is once again the very seamless tannins. This wine has great balance and will reward with extended cellaring."

This label received wide acclaim and high ratings including 94 Points from the and 90 Points from and theThat Wine Advocate rating should have been a clue to this wine since they often 'over rate' these wines, giving them higher ratings than even I would afford them. Over time, tasting, reviewing and rating a large number of wines, I have found consistency in my reviews. In light of the consistency of the professional wine reviewers, there are natural correlations between my reviews and there's. Here is one of those rare cases where we diverge. Simply put, despite the acclaim and top reviews of this wine, we didn't like it. 
Reviewers' indications that this wine may be 'off' from our preferred tasting profile is references to "bouquet of cedar, spice box, pepper, clove, and blueberry", and in the earlier winemaker's review, 'charcoal'. Note five different references before mention of fruit - the very trait we love about these (South Central Australia Barossa Shiraz/Syrah) wines. 
Another reviewer says, "Dark ruby. Smoky, graphite-accented blackberry.....". There it is again, the fruit subordinated to smoke and graphite! 

We found this wine predominantly graphite and metallic elements overshadowing the fruit so much that we capped and it and set it aside. Perhaps not a fair fight against the huge forward unctuous fruit of the Flinders Run below. We'll reopen it today and see if its Bad Impersonation of an Aussie Shiraz continues.
RM 85 points. 


Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2006


We love this wine and consider it a benchmark representation of Southern Australian Shiraz at its very best, and at a pricepoint between $25-30 it offers a relative great QPR (Quality to Price ratio). I wish I could find more of it. Not sure what happened to Flinders Run. It appeared on the market selectively and we haven't see it since.

Overall hit of this comparison tasting of varied big reds. Consistent with earlier notes, the 2006 Flinders is dark inky purple, full bodied, powerfully scented bouquet of dark berries, smoky minerals and fresh flowers bursting with flavors of thick chewy black raspberry, blueberry and cassis with layers of nut, vanilla and hints of mocha flavors on a tongue coating lingering finish. As much as we like this wine, the 2005 may be even better.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=579974

Saturday, May 4, 2013

Grand Tour 2013 Chicago

Grand Tour 2013 Chicago

Admittedly, we were a bit disappointed when we saw the final roster and floorplan for Wine Spectator's Grand Tour Chicago. Absent were any first growth, super second or other premiere Bordeaux producers which tend to be the feature highlights of our interest. As customary, we select our target tasting preferences ahead of time and then lay out our plan of attack according to the floor layout. Our consensus target list featured twenty five wines with another dozen possible entries. Naturally this is about our limit anyway, both in terms of timing and in the tolerance of our pallets before they succumb to 'fatigue' or overload. Never-the-less, as always, Grand Tour was a resounding success based on a cadre of returning favorites, new discoveries of emerging labels from known producers as well as discovery of some here-to-for unknown producers.

Father, son tasting team -
Rick & Ryan
Our wine crew consisted of the usual suspects, members of our OTBN group, sans Ernie and Eric, both of whom were in California for separate conflicts - Eric and Cathy's first grand-daughter, JJ, and Ernie's business conflict. So, helping me hold down the fort were Bill C, Dr. Dan, #1 son Ryan, Lyle and John B.

We met beforehand at Flemings Steakhouse in Chicago's River North neighborhood to review our tasting route and solicit any last minute targets. Indeed, a couple such entries turned out to be some of the surprise discoveries of the evening.

With small plates dinner at Flemings, we drank a bottle of Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009.



We discovered this wine during our visit to the winery during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience - Ladera back in 2008

Label from 2007 vintage.
Fruit for Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from Ladera estate vineyard blocks on their historic Howell Mountain property, a blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petite Verdot that was aged in 40% new French oak for 20 months.

As Bill C noted, this is a benchmark favorite Napa Cabernet that can be found many restaurant winelists at a very reasonable QPR. The 2009 Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is easy drinking, nicely balanced, medium to full bodied with full flavors of black berry, black cherry and ripe plum fruits with notes of cedar, anise, sweet oak spice and ripe tannins that linger on a long velvety finish.
RM 90 points. 

At the Grand Tour, our approach allows us a basis for comparison on known benchmark wines against new discoveries, as well providing a background for our vintage tasting reviews. We allow room for experimentation and exploration, but our view is that without adherence to a plan, the vast selection and diversity of the overall event, can be overwhelming and lead to getting lost and leave the potential for missing some key target selections.

This year, the slimmer list of targets allowed for more wandering and exploration, but our adherence to our plan ensured that we did indeed get through and address our priority list. The result was a typical Grand Tour with spectacular wines, a vast selection and numerous new discoveries, expanding our horizons and wine knowledge and pallet 'vocabulary'.

Initial stream of consciousness from memory before I refer back to my notes. 

Based on the composition of our cellar collections and purchase profiles, we focused on Napa Valley Cabernets, Bordeaux, then Australian Shiraz. We also ventured into and explored emerging new world entries entries mostly from Argentina and Chile and tapped into the Italian aisle which culminated in Ryan discovering Amarone - one of the highlights of the evening. We closed the evening checking in to the 'stickies', desert wines from Sauterne and Tokaji. Lyle, who is our conscious and sentry for ports waved us off the Port aisle citing uninspiring results from his advanced foray there.

Caymus Napa Valley Special Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 

A regular at recent Grand Tours, this year's 2010 release was a blockbuster highlight of the evening - awesome, big, full bodied, firm gripping backbone yet superbly balanced symphony of complex fruit flavors. Picture from the 2011 Grand Tour Chicago report. Naturally on our wine budgets, these are not every day or even once a month drinking wines, but we do collect Special Selection in our cellar for special occasion wines - most notably from the 1990 vintage from son Alec's birth year - which was also Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year, hence this is a must have in our collection. Results of tonight's tasting suggest the 2010 is a must purchase as we're looking for this vintage collectables to commemorate Lucy, our first grand-daughter's birth year. Indeed our large format collection of birth year wines was the subject when our cellar was featured in the Collector column of Wine Spectator back in June 2001

RM 95 points.


Cliff Lede Poetry Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

We discovered Cliff Lede and Poetry at the Grand Tour Chicago 2009 when it was one of the standouts of that event. We followed with a visit to the winery during our Napa Valley Wine Experience, Cliff Lede Stag's Leap District Vineyard & Winery Visit - Autumn '09 and Cliff Lede has been a staple of our cellars ever since. 

This Poetry was big. firm forward fruit with backbone of firm tannins - brambly black fruits with charcoal turning to mocha on a long lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

Provenance Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard TK2 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Surprise discovery from this well known and popular producer - only 175 were cases produced of this special vineyard designated bottling. Of the eighteen tons of grapes harvested from the prestigious Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard, the most select two tons were used in this premiere blend.

Smooth, polished, superbly balanced with moderate tannin backbone, black fruits turn to layer of mocha, mineral and floral on the smooth finish. Bill and Dan loved this and till take what they can obtain!
RM 93 points



Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Benchmark perfection from this perennial premium offering - superbly balanced, polished, complex, approachable already but firm tannin backbone ensures long life and cellaring improvement.
RM 94 points.

Chateau St. Michelle Columbia Valley Ethos Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Another undiscovered label from a well known producer this Reserve is sourced from low yields from old vines planted back in 1972 and 5% Merlot, both from their Cold Creek Vineyard, with 6% Cabernet from their Canoe Ridge Vineyard, also well known due its single vineyard designated labels.Full bodied, firm well extracted complex fruit flavors with nicely integrated polished tannins.
RM 92 points. 






Hall Kathryn Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Consistent with recent tasting at the winery just two weeks ago during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2013. A bit lighter and less complex than recent vintages leaving a bit to be desired in this flagship from this high profile producers.
RM 90 points.

Chateau St Jean Cinq Cepages Sonoma Valley Red 2008
Not as big as the blockbusters above, a bit less complex but nicely polished and balanced stable cab.
RM 90 points.

Beringer Private Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Less weight and complexity than the big dawgs above, nicely balanced and polished but lacking the grip and muscle of the big hitters.
RM 91 points.

Round Pond Estate Napa Valley Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

A surprise discovery of the evening - we had this on our target tasting list. We learned of the work going on at Round Pond during our visit to neighboring Honig Vineyards during our recent Napa Valley Experience 2013. It lived up to expectations or more, none were disappointed. Full bodied, nicely structured with firm backbone, black berry fruits with layer of mocha, anise and hints of olive and faint eucalyptus on the finish. Great QPR in this high-achieving previously overlooked label. RM 91 points.



Louis Martini Lot No. 1 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauivignon

From property owned by legendary E&J Gallo, crafted by winemaker Louis Martini, another surprise discovery of the evening with an interesting blend from Pritchard Hill,  Atlas Peak Stagecoach vineyard and Napa Valley fruit.

A big complex dark wine, lacking the polish and balance of some of the others, but a high achievement from this well known but here-to-for underachieving or overlooked producer.
RM 91 points.

Hess Collection Mt Veeder Caberrnet Sauvignon 2008

We did a drive-by during our Mt Veeder Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2011 as we focused on meeting new boutique producers on the mountain. That was was the decision since this 2008.release Cabernet would've likely been on the tasting menu. This actually exceeded my expectations with nicely integrated tannins on the smooth drinking balanced black fruits. This probably provides reasonable QPR for the area.
RM 88 points. 

Kathryn Kennedy Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
A bit less polished and balanced relative to some earlier highlights, this was a bit awkward and obtuse with some forward black fruits and some gripping tannins, but lacking balance or polish of some of the high achieving efforts.
RM 88 points.

Mission Hill Family Estate Oculus Okanagan Valley Red Wine 2009


Hard to believe this is from Canada. The producer says their latitude results in long summer sun days providing ideal conditions for Bordeaux varietal grapes. From the Canadian region known for desert wines, Oculus is Mission Hill Family Estate's Bordeaux inspired flagship wine from the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia.

Blended from select clusters of designated blocks in the estate Osoyoos and Oliver vineyards; 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot.

Medium to full bodied, dark inky color, black berry and black currant and plum fruits, anise and coffee bean with tight tannins on the finish.
RM 89 points.





The Bordeaux selection: 
 

Pontet-Canet Pauillac Bordeaux 2010
Cos d'Estournel St Estephe Bordeaux 2008
Brane Cantenac Margaux Bordeaux 2006
Chateau Lynch Bages Paulliac Bordeaux 2009
Chateau Giscours Margaux 2009


 




Aussie shiraz:

D'Arenberg 'The Dead Arm' Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008
We discovered Dead Arm back in the nineties and have collected and sourced this regularly for our cellar and for friends. We hold a vertical wine that goes back to the 1994 vintage so we're big fans of this label. It seems that they've lost their way at times as this vintage release seemed uninspiring and lacked the rich concentrated fruit that we've come to expect in Aussie Shiraz' at this pricepoint. Perhaps its pallet fatigue as we reached here at the end of a long evening.

When I read the winemaker's notes on this release, it opens with "notes of fennel",  and continues '".... purple flowers and blossom mingling with ripe, varietal purple fruits and black pepper, dried herbs, game and spice. The palate opens with anise, black pepper, graphite and restrained dark cherries before it gives way to seductive mulberry, plum, licorice and spice. It has great power, depth and length with very vibrant, gritty fruit tannins providing immense structure." I read into that fennel, opens with pepper, graphite and anise, and then it refers to 'restrained' dark cherries, "before it gives way" to seductive plum.

These wine reviews are cryptic and confusing enough but over time one learns to decode and translate them to recognize the vocabulary that matches one's personal tastes and preferences. When I read this one, its logical and consistent with my personal perception - more subdued fruit accompanied by several tones that I personally don't favor that end up competing with and therefore detracting from the fruit. Perhaps this warrants another tasting, standalone, and without the inevitable pallet fatigue of the end of Grand Tour event.
RM 88 points.

Glaetzer Bishop Barossa Valley Shiraz 2010
Our discussion with the supplier cleared up some of our label confusion with these wines. The flagship top of the line label remains Amon Ra which has received blockbuster high marks for the 2010 vintage. We hold several vintages of the Glaetzer Godolphin label but we have not seen it in recent releases. We learned tonight this label was discontinued due to trademark issues and has been replaced by this 'Bishop' label, named for Colin Glaetzer's wife Judith's family. Their Anneparena rounds out the Shiraz family. The Wallace label is their Grenache varietal offering. These continue to represent full-throttle flavorful Shiraz offerings.


The 2010 Bishop was full bodied, inky purple colored, forward tongue-coating blackberry and mulberry fruits turning to a layer of anise and floral on the full lingering tanning finish.
RM 92 points.

Mollydooker Enchanted Path Shiraz 2011
My favorite and vote for best in show of the four Shiraz, also the most expensive price-point so not necessarily the best value selection. This remains one of  the mainstays of our cellar for special occasion wines. (Label picture taken from 2010 release.)

Dense, full bodied, deep concentrated complex black and blue berry and cherry flavors accented by spice, well integrated, soft silky nicely polished tannins on a long finish.

RM 93 points. 




Two Hands Lilly's Garden Barossa Valley Shiraz 2010
Two Hands is a bit of an enigma here in Chicago. While we have occasional varied labels from the Two Hands brand  in our cellar, their plethora of single vineyard designated labels can be intimidating if not overwhelming. If a passionate Shiraz zealot like me feels it, the average 'normal' consumer surely must do so as well. This condition is perhaps exacerbated by their premium pricepoint since we've found may high quality highly rated options that offer high value QPR. Perhaps the fact that they lack distribution here in Chicagoland, or are not apparent in the stores we shop, we've not become familiar or knowledgeable in their brand. Our exposure to Two Hands is at Total Wine on the east coast when we travel there. That said, they're most likely available in our market somewhere but we haven't seen it - and we do a lot of wine shopping. But then, that's what the Grand Tour is all about - to gain exposure to new brands and labels in the marketplace. So many wines, so little time (and money), Two Hands offers a ripe field for further discovery.
 

This 2010 Lily's Garden was full bodied, forward black berry fruits with tones of mocha, spice and hint of pepper on the lingering finish.
RM 92 points. 

Italians: 

Ornellaia  
Tignanello
Allegrini AmaroneDella Valpolicella 2008
Zenato Amarone Della Valpolicella 2008








Stickies ('Aussie' for sweet desert wines):

Chateau Suiduraut Sauterne 2005 


Golden honey colored, full bodied, thick heavy sweet nectar of apricot, hint of peach and layer of creme caramel on the tongue coating finish.
RM 92 









Two expected parents, each due
about the same time.
DisznokoTokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2005

The Disznoko estate is situated at the south-west entrance of the Tokaj region, about 250km from Budapest. Although Disznoko produces a number of wines, the aszu harvest is considered the most important. The most time-consuming and labor-intensive part of the vintage is the hand-harvesting of the aszu grapes, which are the shriveled grapes affected by noble rot that have dried on the vine-stock.

Disznoko Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos is a blend of Furmint, Harslevelu and Zeta aszu grapes. This golden colored with full body and forward fruit flavors of peach and lemon with tones of honey, tropical fruit and mineral on the long finish.

RM 92 points.

Hétszölö Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2004

Golden orange weak tea colored, medium full bodied, modest apricot fruit accented by a layer of smoke and nut with hints of honey on the lingering finish.   
RM 90 points.








 From  South America:

Cheval Des Andes Mendoza Argentina 2007

Medium bodied, moderate black berry and black cherry fruit with a layer of cedar, tobacco, leather and spice with a moderate oak finish.

This 2007 Cheval des Andes is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Malbec, 4% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, aged for 18 months in oak.

RM 88 points.




Riglos Mendoza Las Divas Vineyard Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Riglos is named after the Argentinean town from which producers' Dario Werthein’s and Fabian Suffern’s grandparents came. All the fruit is sourced from the estate in the Uco Valley, Mendoza. 

Dark purple colored, full bodied, intense and firmly structured with earthy blackberry, hints of licorice, pepper, cedar and graphite detract from the fruit leaving it a bit obtuse. 100% Cabernet that spent 20 months in new French oak. 15.4% alcohol.
RM 87 points