Herman Story Bolt Cutter Red Blend 2018

Herman Story Bolt Cutter Red Blend 2018 for Pizza and Pasta

Alec and Vivianna came over for pizza and pasta and we opened this BIG RED for the occasion. 

With a name like "Bolt Cutter", what else might one expect than a big bold concentrated firm forward fruit bomb?

Bolt Cutter was first released in 2012, the inaugural vintage made with a majority share of Bordeaux varietals. The wine is a diversion from the usual Herman Story wines that historically focus on Rhône varietals such as Syrah and Grenache. The name is a playful nod toproducer/winemaker Russell P. From’s most iconic wine: Nuts & Bolts. This is Herman Story for the “I only drink Napa Cab” crowd. 

I wrote about Herman Story and an older vintage release of this label in an earlier blogpost and another one of his labels in a recent blogpost.  

This label from Russel From, Herman Story winemaker and proprietor, is a tribute label from one of those producer's with a sense of humor. As I have written in earlier blogposts, every Herman Story label tells the story on the rear label, "Herman Story was a Rancher, Logger, Swapper, Banker, Philanthropist, a teller of tales and my Grandfather. - Russel From, winemaker, proprietor."

Proprietor and winemaker Russell P. From began Herman Story Wines in 2001 with 7 barrels stashed in his employer’s cellar. What started as a modest homage to his rancher grandfather has become a beacon to those seeking opulent, structured Syrah and Grenache. To maintain balance while giving flavor full stage, Russell works with 30 top-tier growers' vineyards in over 7 distinct growing regions between Santa Barbara and Paso Robles along the California Central Coast. Its widely published that he produces "no nonsense, balls to the walls wines that are not for the faint of heart or the pinky raising set".

With a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Petit Verdot and 10% Syrah this embodies everything we love in a big bold full throttle red wine. Fruit for this release is sourced from the Chelle Mountain, Slide Hill, Star Lane, Jespersen, White Hawk, Bien Nacido, White Cliffs, and Rolph Vineyards across Paso Robles region. The blend was aged for 24 months in 80% new French oak.

As From writes on his website about his no-nonsense approach to winemaking, "Herman Story Wines are made, schlepped, peddled, and drunk with friends by me. The basic web design books tell me that you're probably here for the basics: to find release schedules, ordering information and tasting opportunities for the wines I make, which sounds pretty good to me. The less time I spend writing this stuff the more time I spend in the cellar. So here you go, all the facts with none of the filler. An aesthetic I stand by and believe my wines do too."

Wine Enthusiast gave this a "Cellar Selection" and 94 points, while Jeb Dunnuck gave it a whopping 96 points and said, "It's the finest vintage of this cuvée I've tasted."

Producer's review of this wine speaks to its special, profound character and profile ....  "No one in Ellis County has ever seen a twister like this. Pushing F5 and tossing cows like nobody’s business. It’s about to separate the roof from this old Dodge Durango, but you’re still pushing. Inside, they pass around black licorice and cherry soda to easy listening classics – soothing keys and guitar riffs straight out of elevator speakers. e storm hits a supermarket, then a bakery. Cinnamon buns and rhubarb pies splatter on the road, the hood, the windshield, and the wheels come off the ground. Around you go, hundreds of feet in the air. But damn, listen to that bass groove."

Winemaker Tasting Notes:  "The 2018 Bolt Cutter Red is 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Petit Verdot, 25% Syrah (sic, contrary to the rear label). There’s no denying it, with this much attitude, swagger and raw unbridled power nothing can stop this. This is basically an axe wielding shark wearing a tuxedo, driving a monster truck in an Evel Knievel jump across the Grand Canyon. Prickly pear jam, salted cherries, hoisin sauce, fire scorched poblanos, brand new BF Goodrich 33’’ Baja T/AS off road tires, char crusted bloody filet mignon, blasted limestone quarry, Ferrari seats, well spiced Mexican hot chocolate and rusted pocket knives."

You can't make this up! How else could you top that review? Nothing less than BOMBastic!

Not for the feint of heart indeed, this was dark inky blackish purple, almost like syrup pouring it from the bottle, thick, dense, powerful concentrated unctuous black fruits, dark bitter mocha, black licorice, hints of cherry cola, caramel and cinnamon clove spices with what Wine Enthusiast calls roasted meats on a lasting dry, tannin laced tongue coating finish. 

RM 95 point.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3710603

https://www.hermanstorywines.com/

https://twitter.com/HermanStoryWine

L'Aventure "Optimus" Paso Robles Red Blend 2004

Stephen Vineyards L'Aventure "Optimus" Paso Robles Red Blend 2004 with Barbecue Ribs

Following our COVID shut-in virtual family dinner and wine tasting last evening where son Ryan had barbecue ribs and L'Aventure "Optimus", (and our original such event last weekend), Linda prepared grilled barbecue ribs and I pulled from our cellar the same label for pairing. 

Readers of this blog know we love Shiraz/Syrah, and we love big bold fruit forward and structured wines. What could be better, then, than a big fruity Syrah, bolstered by structure of Cabernet Sauvignon, augmented by highlights of dark fruits and backbone of Petit Verdot! And, what better pairing for such a wine than barbecue ribs! 

Frenchman Stephan Asseo studied oenology L'Ecole Oenologique de Macon, Burgundy and began making wine in 1982. He established Domaine de Courteillac in Bordeaux and with his family, later purchased Chateau Fleur Cardinal and Chateau Robin in the Cotes de Castillion, Bordeaux. Over the next 15 years he honed his craft as an artisan winemaker and gained a reputation as a maverick vigneron.  

After searching for over a year among the world's great wine regions for an ideal location to produce his wines, he fell in love with Paso Robles. In 1996, he came to America with his wife, Beatrice and his three children, where he would not constrained by the strict rigorous French AOC regulations. He started L’Aventure on a 127-acre estate in 1998 in Paso Robles in the Santa Lucia Mountain Range on the California Central Coast. He released his first vintages the late 1990s and today crafts innovative blends of Bordeaux and Rhone varietals including his flagship wines Optimus and Estate Cuvee, both blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. 

It is always a priority at L’Aventure to harvest the individual clusters of the grapes and work the various blocks in the vineyards at the optimal time. This attention to detail and commitment to quality costs L’Aventure up to five times the labor and production costs of other producers. 

Syrah is the primary varietal planted at L’Aventure, planted up and down the four hillsides that make up the estate vineyards. As the crowns of each hill mature, they are the hilltops to be picked pick. It could be a week or two later before they descend on the middle band of vines, and it can be up to a month later before they pick the bottom third of the hill, which retains more water, enjoys richer soil, and therefore matures fruit later.

Robert M. Parker has written that “Asseo continues to go from strength to strength, producing a fabulous portfolio of wines that makes L’Aventure one of the bright, shining reference points for the region. This is one of the California Central Coast superstars…”  

L'Aventure "Optimus" Paso Robles Red Blend 2004

The 2004 Optimus, L'Aventure's signature "Paso Blend," is a blend of 57% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Petit Verdot. This was the greatest percentage of Petit Verdot ever to be used in the Optimus blend resulting in tight focus and extraordinary grip. 

Like Ryan's experience the other evening, as soon as the cork was released from the bottle, the room erupted with aromas of black berry fruits.  

Dark blackish inky purple colored, full bodied, concentrated forward rich blackberry and black raspberry fruits are accented by blue notes, floral, licorice, hints of espresso, smoke and black tea with a long tannin laced finish. 

RM 92 points.  

Wine Spectator gave this release 91 points. The latest 2017 release got 94 points from Jeb Dunnuck.

Sunset Magazine called this a "Paso Gem": "A Syrah-Cabernet blend with an iron core. Mint, chocolate, sweet pipe tobacco, and blackberries."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=270693

https://www.aventurewine.com/

@LAventureWine

Herman Story Nuts and Bolts Syrah 2013

Herman Story Nuts and Bolts Syrah 2013

Dining at son Ryan's for dinner, he opened this Herman Story Nuts and Bolts Syrah. I own several vintages of this wine including this vintage but have not tasted it so this was a treat to get a highly anticipated preview of this label.

This label from Russel From, Herman Story winemaker and proprietor  is a tribute label from one of those producer's with a sense of humor.

Every Herman Story label tells the story on the rear label, "Herman Story was a Rancher, Logger, Swapper, Banker, Philanthropist, a teller of tales and my Grandfather. - Russel From, winemaker, proprietor.:

This is a unique, creative and imaginative branding strategy. The entire portfolio of Herman Story wines have artistic photo art labels with various clever whimsical names such as Bolt Cutter, Milk & Honey, Casual Encounters, On the Road and this one, Nuts and Bolts, and a white Rhone blend called Tomboy, a 'white wine for the red wine drinker'.

The Herman Story lineup ...  each label tells a story ... an interesting library ... and of course the image art changes from vintage to vintage to make it more intriguing ...

  

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

Herman Story offer more ... including several vineyard designated or single varietal selections as well. 

I am normally not a huge fan of Paso Robles wines and I know this label regularly gets highest ratings, but this exceeded my expectations on all levels. I can't wait to delve deeper into the portfolio and sample more of their wines.

Herman Story "Nuts & Bolts" California Syrah 2013 

This is 100% Syrah sourced from estate vineyards and select growers from the greater Central Coast region. This is a big bold expressive powerful bruiser that packs jammy flavorful fruit but is approachable, delicious and delightful to drink. Its not for the feint of heart but is smooth enough for casual sipping, or stands up to hearty cheeses and BBQ.

This vintage release got 96 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 92 points from Vinous.

Robert Parker writes, "A wine that stood out in my Paso Robles tasting was the 2013 Syrah Nuts and Bolts. Made from 100% Syrah that saw 16 months in 70% new French oak, it's the greatest vintage of this cuvee I've tasted and it offers off the hook notes of creme de cassis, melted licorice, caramelized meats, pepper and crushed flowers. Full-bodied, voluptuous and hedonistic, it's also seamless and balanced, with ultra-fine tannin, no hard edges and blockbuster length."

Winemaker Russell From says, "It is a no holds barred expression of Syrah that chases flavor at nearly any cost."

Dark inky purple, full bodied, concentrated structured full flavorful fruits but nicely balanced and approachable, black and blue fruits with notes of spice, cherry cola notes, hints of black olive and pepper.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2028299

https://www.hermanstorywines.com/

Thanksgiving Feast Features Rhone Wine Flight

Thanksgiving Feast Features Rhone Varietal Blend Wine Flight

Twenty members of immediate family and dear friends gathered for our Thanksgiving feast. . For the occasion we selected a flight of Rhone varietal wines from our cellar and from son Ryan's.

We started with a aged vintage birth year selection celebrating son Alec and partner Viv joining us from NYC, a classic Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Following the protocol of wine tasting, we moved from lighter wines to larger more complex wines. We progressed to more recent vintage Rhone Blend selections from our recent trip to Washington State Walla Walla and Red Mountain AVA, and then moved to a Rhone varietal Blend from Paso Robles.


Domaine de Beaurenard (Paul Coulon et Fils) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 1990

We discovered and acquired this label during our trip to Châteauneuf-du-Pape back in 1998.

Nearing thirty years of age, this is nearing the end of its drinking window but still suitable for such an occasion. This is beginning to lose clarity and taking on an slight opaque tone and the garnet color taking on a sight brownish hue. We still hold three bottles from this case acquired decades ago representing son Alec's birth year, holding them for family occasions.

Consistent with earlier tasting notes, this was medium to full bodied with slight earthiness and leather fronting layers of herbs, black and green pepper that accompany the slightly subdued black cherry and black berry fruits with a hint of spice, moderate lingering tannins.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=30341


https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/chateau-boisrenard-and-bbq-beef-brisket.html

Progressing in weight and complexity, this GSM Blend (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre) in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape style is from Washington State Red Mountain AVA. We visited the producer Force Majeure during our recent Walla Walla Wine Experience 2018.

Force Majeure Collaboration Series VI Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2011

We acquired a collection of Force Majeure wines including this vintage after meeting and hosting Force Majeure winemaker Todd Alexander and marketing, distribution and branding exec Carrie Alexander during their Chicago visit last year.  


Bright vibrant, garnet/purple in color full bodied, concentrated complex Blackberry fruits predominate with tangy red berries, tones of pepper and tar, earth and meat, hints of expresso, anise and smoke accented by nicely integrated smooth lingering dusty tannins. Another CT'er rightly noted this 'benefitted with time and warmer than cellar temps'.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=1788937

The Collaboration Series has ended as Todd has taken over general management and winemaking duties and his handiwork is now coming on line; this historic label was made by James Mantone of Syncline Winery. This is a blend 47% Mourvedre, 42% Syrah and 11% Grenache.

We just received our current release of Force Majeure 'GSM' blend, Parata, that we tasted and acquired during our recent Force Majeure Vineyards and new winery facility site visit and tasting, and were eager to open it and compare but didn't get that far in our consumption. We will look forward to a comparison tasting in the future as we hold several bottles of each.

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/

We continued in our flight to a bigger, heavier, more concentrated Rhone varietal blend from Paso Robles L'Aventura that Ryan brought from his cellar.

L'Aventure Côte-à-Côte Estate Paso Robles 2011

Ryan brought this Rhone Red bruiser vintage 2011 providing a mini-horizontal tasting aside the Force Majeure.

Another GSM blend, very similar in style and taste but bigger and more concentrated with a whopping 15.8% alcohol content. Amazingly approachable considering the high alcohol content.

This is the handiwork of legendary winemaker Stephan Asseo who has been making wine since 1982. After graduating from L'Ecole Oenologique de Macon, in Burgundy, France, he started his wine career when he established Domaine de Courteillac in Bordeaux, then later purchased Chateau Fleur Cardinal and Chateau Robin in the Cotes de Castillion, Bordeaux. Over the next 15 years he honed his winemaking skills there.

In 1996 he embarked on a year long global search of the world's great wine regions for a great terroir when he "fell in love" with the unique terroir of Paso Robles in Central California in the rolling hills  of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range. There, Stephan began his adventure, "L'Aventure".
 
Bright garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, firmly structured, complex but nicely balanced and integrated forward fruits of ripe blackberry and red berry fruits accented by menthol, bacon fat, tones of black olive, anise and herbs with firm but well behaved silky tannins on the long finish.

RM 93 points.

This is a blend of 40% Syrah, 38% Mourvedre and 22% Grenache, similar to above but more Syrah and less Grenache.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1578540

http://www.aventurewine.com/

Later after dinner, watching a movie, we opened this big Syrah Blend from Washington State that we discovered and acquired during our Seattle Culinary and Woodinville (Washington) Wine Tour 2018. 

Long Shadows Wineries Sequel Syrah 2015

As chronicled in my recent blogpost on the Long Shadows Vintner's Collection, this is part of the portfolio of premium wines produced by legendary winemakers from around the world who are masters for their artwork with specific varietal wines.  

This Sequel Syrah is crafted by legendary Syrah winemaker John Duval, known for the leading Syrah label from Australia, Penfold's Grange. We hold a OWC (original wood case) of the 1990 Penfold's Grange, commemorating Alec's birth year. That label was Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year for the year 1993. 

Dark inky purple colored, rich, thick concentrated ripe black berry and black raspberry fruits, black pepper, smoked meat, notes of vanilla and caramel. 

RM 93 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2777751

https://www.longshadows.com/

This could likely improve with some further aging as it could benefit from some time to settle and should improve with a couple more years to achieve more balance and harmony as it reaches the apex of its drinking window, which clearly will be another decade or more. With our deep cellar, we'd normally hold a bottle like this for a while before consuming but we tried it now since it is available still at Binny's, our local wine super store so we can go get some more to replace this bottle and stock up some more, (even though we're in the highest level of the Long Shadows wine club and will be receiving some in our shipment allocation; but that will be the next 2016 vintage and we'll want to hold the '15, as it is birthyear of two grandkids, Reid and Jessie.). 

Finally, late in the evening we opened this TBA dessert wine. Viv just returned from an extended trip across Europe that include visits to Budapest and Prague in the Danube River Valley. There they visited several wineries. So, I pulled this Kracher dessert wine from the Burgenland wine region in Eastern Austria which I visited back in the early 2000's.

Alois Kracher Chardonnay TrockenBeeren Auslese (TBA) #7 Nouvelle Vague 2001



We hold more than a dozen labels of Kracher wines from this era. Its fun to watch quality dessert wines mature and change color over time, from straw color, to butter, then weak tea, and progressing darker and darker over time. Note this color of tea at seventeen years of age.

At their most desirable (to my taste preference) these wines are rich, thick, unctuous, and voluptuous with apricot marmalade, mango, toffee/brown sugar, and caramel notes. This may have been there at some point and perhaps passed that stage of its aging profile. If so, then it is time to drink although it will no doubt continue to age gracefully for several more years. But the rich, sweet apricot fruits nectar was gone and has turned more to a smokey charcoal layer over the fruits which were more subdued. Delightful never-the-less.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19086

Conundrum California Rosé 2017

Conundrum California Rosé 2017

This is the first Rosé wine reviewed in these pages, and my first in several thousand tastings notes published in my wine journal here and on unwindwine.com.

Conundrum was a project from Chuck Wagner of Caymus legend that has become a major brand with Red, White and this Rose' wine that are sourced from various suppliers throughout California - Napa, Monterey, Santa Barbara, San Benito, Solano and Tulare Counties.

Conundrum was founded in 1989 with Conundrum White, Conundrum Red came along in 2011. Today, Charlie’s grandson, Charlie Wagner II, manages Conundrum and is Winemaker for this wine.

 This Conundrum Rosé is made primarily from Valdigué, a unique and rare grape varietal grown in limited quantities, sourced from near Paso Robles in Central California. The varietal was originally thought to be Gamay until its provenance and pedigree were validated.

This is moderate, light, crisp and refreshing, an ideal summer wine for sunny days on the veranda. Golden, rust-orange, rose colored, light, dry, modest notes of strawberry, hints of pear and tropical fruits with lively acidic finish.

RM 87 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2970209

http://www.conundrumwines.com/wines/



  

Daou Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Daou Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Visiting NYC I visited son Alec at his east side apartment where we opened this Daou Paso Robles Cab before heading out to dinner at tony Il Postino.

I am normally not a fan of Paso Robles wines perhaps due to the heat there in the Central Cal valley that results in intense powerful wines that give off their own element of heat.

This cabernet was indicative of the style from there where there is a punch to the extracted forward black fruit with notes of kirsch, dark mocha, hints of creosote and smokey herbs and pepper.

RM 89 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2447823

Cabernet Franc Duo Accompany Steak Fajitas

Cabernet Franc Duo Accompany Steak Fajitas Family Dinner

Ocean side of our beach house in Corolla

We spent a week in the Outer Banks of North Carolina with the kids and grand-kids. Son Ryan and I brought along a mixed case of wine to accompany our family dinners.

With hurricane Jose stirring offshore (see wave action to the right), we hunkered down inside the beach house for the opening family dinner of our family vacation.

We had steak fajitas and opened two bright, bold and spicy Cabernet Franc Bordeaux varietal based wines as accompaniment - Ryan brought a Justin Justification from Paso Robles, and I brought a Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Franc to compare.

The spicy character of these Cabernet Franc wines was appropriately suited to the bolder fajita preparation.

'Justification' is the 'Right Bank' Bordeaux varietal based Red Blend from Justin Winery and Vineyards.

'Right Bank' refers to the style or blend of grape varietals indigenous to the Right or north or east side of the diagonally flowing Gironde River that runs through the Bordeaux region of southwestern France. Wines from that side tend to be predominantly Merlot with high (er) percentages of Cabernet Franc. Wines from the 'left bank' or south and west side of the river tend to favor Cabernet Sauvignon.


Justin Justification Paso Robles Red Wine 2014

This is Justin's Right Bank Red Blend which features 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot.

Deep ruby colored, full bodied, concentrated core of firm black current and black cherry fruits accented by graphite and cedar with notes of anise, cinnamon spice and hints of dark cocoa with moderate full tannins on a long lingering finish.

RM 89 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2300779

https://www.justinwine.com/

Del Dotto Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 1999

Our winery visit and cellar tasting tour at the Del Dotto Cellars in Rutherford just south of St Helena was a highlight of our recent 2017 trip to Napa Valley.

This is nearing the end of our 1999 collection of Del Dotto Napa Valley Bordeaux varietals which is part of our vertical collection dating back to that era.

At eighteen years, this is showing its age as the berry fruits are starting to give way to non fruit flavors of game, earth, leather and cedar. dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, the black berry and bright black cherry fruits are offset by the non-fruit flavors. Time to drink up as this is in its late stages of its drinking window.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=37725

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

Justin Isosceles & Justification Paso Robles Red Wines 2013

Justin Isosceles & Justification Paso Robles Red Wines 2013

I admit I've never been a huge fan of Justin Isosceles, finding the Paso Robles terroir impact a bit too brambly for my preference. So it was with a slight bit of skepticism that I tasted the 2013 at Binny's Friday night table tasting. Wow. Not only was this the most impressive Isosceles in memory, it was truly exciting and memorable. I'd consider this a must buy for those seeking a premium Cabernet Blend for this vintage, or at least a must try.

Justin Isosceles 2013

Isosceles of course if the flagship wine of Justin Vineyards and Winery since 1981, from the mountains above Paso Robles between the City on Hwy 101 and the Pacific Central California Coast. Since 1981, producer Justin Baldwin has tended 160 acres of Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

This 2013 is an eye opener for me and puts Paso Robles and Justin Vineyards and Winery on the map as a producer to pay more attention to, and as a wine discovery adventure destination. In the meantime, pick up and try this impressive release. 

Producers Notes: This sums it up very well and is worth noting.

Appearance: Bright, near opaque, ruby purple core with a narrow, moderate intensity rim and slow forming slightly stained tears.

Aroma: Intense and complex with aromas of ripe black fruit, baking spice, sweet tobacco, leather, cocoa, oak barrel elements with subtle smoky eucalyptus accents.

Palate: Dry and full-bodied with rich black cherry and blackcurrant fruit, vanilla, cinnamon and licorice spice notes on the entry. Savory, herbal and mint notes appear, followed by dark chocolate and smoky oak elements on the mid palate. The finish is very long and crisp with a complex interplay between the savory mid-palate and returning fruit of red cherry candy and sweet spice with a floral hint of violet, all framed by soft, chewy tannins. The 2013 Isosceles is drinking exceptionally well at release but has the structure to further develop beautifully over time. Great with classic cab fare like rich braised short ribs or grilled leg of lamb with garlic and herbs, the 2013 Isosceles also drinks well on its own due to its exceptional balance of flavor and texture even when young.

Blend 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 9% Merlot

This was truly unique in its character and flavor profile. I was taken aback by the bright vibrant expressive cherry and black currant fruits punctuated by a luscious floral perfume of silky sweet cinnamon with hints of vanilla and mocha chocolate on the smooth lingering finish.

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2292673

http://www.justinwine.com/wines/red/2013-isosceles/

Justin Justification 2013

This is Justin's Right Bank Bordeaux blend, being Merlot based vs. Left Bank Cabernet predominant. While Merlot typically would be slightly softer and more mellow than more forward Cabernet, this is actually mostly Cabernet Franc which is put into Bordeaux Blends for punctuation of spice and bright bold sprites. Voila! With its Cab Franc core, this is bright, tangy spicy and expressive. This is more the style that I associate with Justin red blends.

Once again, as above, I offer the Producer's notes on this wine.

COLOR:  Deep ruby purplish core lightening to medium intensity at the rim.

AROMA:  Ripe red cherry, blackcurrant and just-rip blackberry, with rich vanilla and cinnamon spice and an attractive savory and herbal character.

PALATE:  Full and complex with an elegant mix of ripe red fruit, primarily cherry with cassis and a little plum, and rich baking spice on the entry. A little dusty, savory cabernet franc charm emerges on the mid-palate along with subtle mint and eucalyptus notes leading to a long, clean finish.

Blend - 58% Cabernet Franc 42% Merlot

While I normally love bold tangy spicy wines, I prefer it as a complementary tone, not as the main course. When combined with the brambly Paso Robles terroir character and the profile of an expressive vintage, this is almost a bit over the top for me, which I very rarely say. 

Dark blackish garnet color medium bodied, forward concentrated bright expressive tangy spicy black berry fruits accented with tones of anise, oaky and hints of smoke and creosote finishing with gripping tannins. Perhaps a couple years of aging will tame this bruiser a bit.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2161407

http://www.justinwine.com/wines/red/justification-2013/

Deep Sea Conway Family Wines - Paso Robles Merlot 2011

Deep Sea Conway Family Wines - Paso Robles Merlot 2011

Another selection from a wine brand seeking identity, or failing to capitalize on its heritage?

Another commentary on my study and observations on wine branding. Traveling for business this week provided the opportunity to stop in a wine shop in a remote city. This always affords a chance to see different producers and labels that don't otherwise show up in our large metropolitan home market. Sometimes smaller producers can only fill the demands of a smaller market, or other reasons. So it was that I found Deep Sea Merlot and Deep Sea Chardonnay from Conway Family Wines in Santa Barbara.

We've seen this label in secondary and tertiary markets from time to time. The rarity of the label may be exacerbated by the fact that some of their labels are no longer being produced, so finds like this are anomalies of the tail of the distribution chain. In some cases these offerings may be Negociant labels, wherein they purchase fruit from growers, or even purchase excess wine from producers, and market them under their own private label (s).

I've written in these pages about the branding challenge faced by a Negociant, that of building affinity for a brand that is associated with terroir, or sense of place, for a particular wine, when the grapes are sourced from various anonymous growers that may change with each vintage.

How stark the contrast with Chateau Laroze, showcased in last week's blog, where the land has been in the family since 1610, producing from the same facility under the same label since 1885. Such is the extent of the difference between 'old world' and 'new world' producers' and their wines.

We have found Deep Sea wines including their Syrah and Cabernet but this was the first time seeing and experiencing their Merlot. I've written in these pages about this producer and those labels from the California Central Coast and one from Napa Valley. Generally, they have provided modest price, good price point QPR (Quality Price Ratio) wines.

Their negociant practice is broadcast in their testament, "We purchase fruit from noteworthy vineyards in Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Monterey Counties, and the Napa Valley. We contract with specific blocks, and actively manage the individual vines in that area. We work with growers to formulate viticultural practices and the rows are farmed to our specifications."

But, they also have their own vineyards as indicted by their website, “As with our estate vineyards, we concentrate on quality rather than yield per acre, and we carefully hand pick the grapes when they reach the right balance of flavor, acidity and sugar."

According to the Conway Family Wines website, the Estate is the thirty-five hundred acre Rancho Arroyo Grande in the Central Coast region of California, thirteen miles from the Pacific Ocean, where the coastal range meets the mountains of the Los Padres National Forest.

When I search Cellartracker for Deep Sea Merlot, a pretty good indicator of the marketplace with over a half million collectors and a several million bottles featured, I find this producer, Deep Sea Paso Robles Merlot, as well as Deep Sea Rancho Arroyo Grande Vineyard Merlot, although only one vintage of each. As a consumer of these wines, do I presume one (the first) is a Negociant offering while the latter is Estate Bottled?

As their website indicates, "Deep Sea wines showcase the maritime influence on grapes grown in California’s coastal climate. The grapes for our wine are grown in vineyards close to the Pacific Ocean, (where)Vineyards along the California coastline are cooled by fog and ocean breezes."
 

So it is with Deep Sea, a collection of labels but a conundrum in branding. I say this because we also hold Deep Sea Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Of course, the Deep Sea reference to proximity to the Ocean and its effects work for the Central Coast, and would work for the Sonoma Coast, but are a paradox when associated with inland NapaValley.

This leads me to the branding question; if the Conway Family owns spectacular lands with estate vineyards with such a rich heritage, why not leverage such and establish the pedigree and branding associated with terroir for your wines?

The personality of family association is strong for branding and building brand affinity and loyalty. Look at the number of premier labels bearing the family or 'place' name.

Indeed, the Conway Family feature a wonderful photo of their beautiful extended family of seven siblings and offspring.

 So Deep Sea, or Conway Family Wines, is Deep Sea Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon an oxymoron, an anomaly, or a step along the path to establishing an evolving, maturing branding strategy?

I see on their website the inaugural release of another label - Conway Santa Barbara County Cabernet Sauvignon. I will look forward to tasting their signature brand premium label release (s) and will watch their evolution with interest.

Meanwhile, we tasted the Deep Sea Paso Robles Merlot 2009

Dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, bright full aromatics project the flavors to come - full, somewhat forward black berry and black raspberry fruits with tones of cedar, a slight mustiness and hints of creosote and earthy leather on a moderate, soft tannin finish.

RM 86-87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1847704

http://www.conwayfamilywines.com/

What is the real Deep Sea?

Andrew Murray Tous les Jours Santa Ynez Valley Syrah

Andrew Murray "Tous les Jours" Santa Ynez Valley Syrah 2014

Once again this year, Open House Chicago, put on by the Chicago Architecture Foundation opened the doors to 200 iconic buildings to the public this past weekend. This offers a rare opportunity to see inside many buildings not often open to the public, and many that we pass regularly, perhaps wondering what is inside.

As a docent interpreter for the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust, I presided over tours at the famous Robie House in Hyde Park at the University of Chicago. This Frank Lloyd Wright prairie style masterpiece was designated one of the most influential buildings of the 20th Century by the American Institute of Architects and represents one of the best examples of the works of FLW and his prairie architecture.

Better half, Linda and friends Bill and Beth came in for the tour and then we dined in Hyde Park at Medici Cafe. We took a couple wines BYOB for the occasion. From the local Treasure Island, I picked up this Santa Ynez Valley Shiraz from Andrew Murray. We're visiting the area next month and we're trying to preview wines from the region in preparation for our visit.

Readers of this column have read about my collecting guidance for 'once a week', 'once a month', 'once in a lifetime', and 'every day' wines. Andrew Murray Vineyards offer this label as their “everyday”, easy-drinking Syrah. “Tous les Jours”, which translates to 'everyday', a red wine blend of Syrah from Paso Robles and Santa Ynez Valley vineyards, has been touted as one of the best wines under $20 by Food & Wine Magazine.

Recent vintages of this wine have been available under $15 and have gained 90+ ratings providing great QPR - Quality Price Ratio.

Andrew Murray "Tous les Jours" Santa Ynez Valley Syrah 2014 

This 2014 is dark inky purple colored, full bodied with black cherry and black raspberry fruits with tones of black pepper and spice, a subtle layer of graphite metallic detracts from its smooth approachability for my preference but Linda likes this style, with its full forward fruits and smooth moderate tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2181477

http://andrewmurrayvineyards.com/

Robert Craig 1998 Duo - Paso Robles Syrah, Amador County Zinfandel

Robert Craig 1998 Duo - Paso Robles Syrah, Amador County Zinfandel

Pulled a couple of 1998 Robert Craigs to consume this weekend as they're reaching their last chapter of their drinking window so its time.  We took the Syrah to Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria BYOB. We then took the Zin to the kid's house for Father's Day bar-b-q rib dinner.

Of course Robert Craig is known for his portfolio of Napa Valley Appellation designated Cabernets - Howell Mountain, Mt Veeder, Spring Mtn, Mt George and 'Affinity' his blend that also includes various Napa Valley sources. He also produces a Zinfandel sourced from Howell Mtn. Back in the earlier days, he sourced fruits of other non-Napa sources such as these. We hold more than a dozen vintages of his various Cabs, and every single release since 1993 of his flagship inaugural releases, and a few various bottles of his other selections.

We've visited Robert Craig's Howell Mountain top estate on numerous occasions and host him at a couple of wine producer dinners back in the nineties during our Napa Wine Experience 98 and 99. We may likely own more Craig bottles than any other producer in our extensive cellar. Records show we acquired at the winery and subsequently consumed three vintages of this same Amador County label from vintages near the 1998, and the '97 release of this Syrah.

	Robert Craig Amador Country Zinfandel 2001 - Nov 25, 2011
	Robert Craig Amador Country Zinfandel 2000 - Nov 27, 2003
	Robert Craig Amador County Zinfandel 1997 - Nov 22, 2001
	Robert Craig Paso Robles Syrah 1997 - August 2, 2001, May 8, 2001

Interesting how they behaved alike upon opening and over the course of the next hour. Both were a bit funky and flabby initially with a slight black cherry tartness and earthy leather mustiness. Dark garnet colored and medium bodied, the Zin was starting to take on a rust bricking on the edges. Over the course of the next hour each opened to reveal black berry fruits and a similar tone of sweet vanilla mocha with a moderate tannin, acidic finish. Give them an hour, but then consume them in one sitting. We held back part of the Syrah to finish the next evening and the funk started to set in again.

RM 86 points each.

Syrah - https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=358629

Zinfandel - https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=157336

www.robertcraigwine.com

BBQ on the deck features medley of Red Wines

Late Spring BBQ on the deck features medley of Red Wines

A pleasant late spring evening on the deck at Bill and Beth's with Bob and Gloria, chargrilled burgers, caprese and summer salads with a medley of wines provided a delightful setting to watch the Blackhawks struggle to a game 4 playoff win in double OT.

Hazy Blur Barossa Shiraz 2004

This is a fun wine, great for easy sipping on the deck with burgers, but its not a simple sipper by any means with its robust full bodied fruit forward profile.

We've enjoyed the various labels from this producer on many occasions including a super New Year's eve (2009) horizontal brand tasting at Bill and Beth's, shown in the link here, and an earlier vintage of this same label just earlier this week. Interesting that this '04 was showing well and still holding its fruit nicely, compared to the '02 which was showing its age.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, rich concentrated black and blue fruits with tones of spice, hints of vanilla, smoke and pepper.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=150186

Justin Paso Robles Iscosceles 2007

This may have been the best Isosceles I can remember. The hotter Paso Robles clime tends to add a harsh edge to the Bordeaux varietals at times but this release was quite nice - polished and balanced for smooth easy drinking.

Dark ruby colored, medium to full bodied, black berry and black cherry with a red berry tone, hints of sweet mocha and anise and a touch of sweet oak on the back palate with soft tannins provide easy approachable sipping. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 4% Merlot.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=786610

http://www.justinwine.com/




Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

We discovered and acquired this wine with Bill and Beth during our Napa Valley Diamond Mountain Wine Experience back in 2011, at the spectacular winery high atop Diamond Mountain.

Dark garnet colored, the medium body and softer more moderate profile of this wine render it more approachable for casual drinking although it is complex and sophisticated enough to stand up to foods for an elegant dinner. 

Bill's notes from an earlier tasting: "Clove, pepper and smoke on the nose. Medium bodied but the spice carries over on the palate along with plum, cassis and blackberry. Still ample but well integrated tannins. Update: evolved after 2 hours to reveal additional minerality with notes of leather and mocha."

A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 22% Cabernet Franc.

WCC 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=395853

Justin Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Justin Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

This was featured at the Saturday afternoon tasting flight at Vin Chicago in Naperville. I'm not normally a big fan of Paso Robles style wines and hence, or Justin, but this was a standout.

A pleasant flavorful easy drinking Cab - garnet colored, medium bodied, berry and currant flavors are accented by soft sweet spicy oak tones, vanilla and hints of milk chocolate. I liked it and bought some and look forward to trying it again with char-grilled beef, hearty cheese or dark chocolates. 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/purchase.asp?iWine=1804777 

http://www.justinwine.com/

Hice Cellars Paso Robles Cabernet Franc 2006

Hice Cellars Paso Robles Cabernet Franc 2006

For a simple wine fruit and cheese setting at home, we opened this obscure small boutique producer offering from Paso Robles. While simple easy drinking juice, it actually exceeded my modest expectations.  We picked this up at auction in a caveat emptor purchase which turned out to be a high QPR acquisition.

Ruby colored, medium bodied, rather simple, single dimensional but pleasant easy drinking black cherry and loganberry fruits with a moderate earthy tone of tobacco leaf and tree bark on a moderate tannin finish.


RM 87 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1080582

Caparone Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Caparone Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 

A replay of this high achieving Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon that #1 son Ryan discovered at his local neighborhood wineshop in Bucktown/Chicago and then ordered a case of the subsequent vintage release from the producer. The producer claimed this 2008 was his best work to date. I must say, I too was very impressed with this high achieving Cabernet from an area not necessarily known or noted for its Bordeaux varietals.

Ryan brought the '07 to our house for Dad's Day dinner when we did a comparison tasting against a young and old Bordeaux.  Tonight, I visited him and Michelle to see recent newborn grand-daughter Marleigh while in the city. I stayed for dinner and Ryan opened this '08 vintage release. I thought this was even better than the 2007.

This is the artwork of father-and-son operation Dave and Marc Caparone. Dave, one of the most experienced winemakers in Paso Robles, has made wine every year since 1973. He founded Caparone Winery in 1979 and focuses on full-bodied red wines made in a classic style. They produce small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Aglianico.

The fruit for this release is sourced from the French Camp Vineyard in Paso Robles, located at the eastern edge of the appellation, near the Temblor mountain range.

This is full bodied with dark purple color, it is expressive and vibrant with full forward black and blue berry fruits, almost like a big Aussie Shiraz. A layer of spice and hints of mocha and smoky cassis linger on a clinging tannin finish. True to the intent of the producer, this is a big classic Cabernet: rich, dense and well balanced with great structure, fruit and varietal character;  oak flavor is minimized and the alcohol level is moderate. This is smoother, better balanced and more polished than the '07 we had a while back. This provides great QPR and I went and bought a case for enjoyable easy every day drinking.

RM 90 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1673956

http://www.caparone.com/

Vintage Bordeaux and two upstart 2007's with Grilled Strip Steak Dad's Day Dinner

Vintage Bordeaux Anchors Grilled Strip Steak Dad's Day Dinner

For Dad's Day dinner Linda prepared my favorites - grilled NY Strip Steaks, corn on the cob, whipped potatoes and flour-less chocolate dessert. Ryan brought a intriguing pair of diverse reds that shared the same tasting profile. One, Larose De Gruaud, St Julien Bordeaux prompted me to open the Chateau Talbot for a St Julien terrior comparison tasting. Interestingly, the Gruaud was very similar to and more like the Caparone Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon.

Chateau Talbot St Julien Bordeaux 1986

Medium to full bodied, classic left bank aromas and flavors of floral violets, leather, tobacco and slight earthiness, herbs and hint of tar accent the blackberry and black cherry fruits on the lingering full floral moderate tannin finish. Decanted for an hour before drinking, it initially had a bit of barnyard funkiness but this burned off over the course of two hours to reveal its native character. A nice surprise in the staying power of this wine still in its drinking window albeit past its prime and beyond any chance for improvement through further aging, it still has several years of life left.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3373


Larose De Gruaud St Julien Bordeaux 2007

Ryan brought these two 2007 vintage bottles to share/taste. The St. Julien Bordeaux prompted me to pull the Chateau Talbot for a terrior comparison tasting. When I bought these back in the eighties, I considered Talbot as a poor man's Gruaud Larose. It certainly presented itself like a big hitter tonight!

While the Larose De Gruaud is a lesser second label of legendary Gruaud Larose, this wine resembled the Caparone moreso than its 'cousin' the Talbot, aside the difference in vintages. I say cousin because back in those days, both were properties whose wines were marketed by the Cordier enterprise and labeled as such. Today, Chateau Talbot is still owned by the two daughters of Jean Cordier, earlier patriarch of the company,

Not to be confused with their second label Sarget De Gruaud Larose, this wine is sourced from younger vines not considered ready for premier use in the first and second labels.

This was especially fun to taste this with Ryan following our encounter with Gruaud Larose winemaker David Launey when we taste their vintage release at the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Producers' 2010 Release Tasting in Chicago back in January.

Both the Caparone and the Larose De Gruaud presented big firm predominant gripping bramble dark black fruit flavors accented by a layer of creosote tar and smoke giving way to black cherry, tobacco, leather and lingering firm tannins. A bit austere on the finish.

These are two great pizza or barbecue wines. Both provide good QPR - Quality Price Ratio's at their sub $20 price points. .

RM 87 points.  

Caparone Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Ryan's notes from Cellartracker on the Caparone:

I'm very impressed... what a bargain. very interesting wine. I don't have lot of experience with Paso Robles, but now I'm very intrigued.

This reminded me a 2001 Gruaud Larose I drank a couple months ago. when I closed my eyes, i was envisioning that wine. keep in mind, this was 20% the cost!

Color - showed some moderate bricking, which was really concerning upon pouring it. i'm wondering if this wine may have been flawed in a strange way that actually improved it.

Nose - earthy and kinda musty, with smoke and leather.

Mouth - smoky, with tar and leather, and red fruit. as mentioned above with the GL similarity, it tasted a lot like a 15 year old St. Julien. drank over several hours and after about 3 hours it starting showing another layer of fruit that was really nice.

I'm going to buy a couple more bottle today. I'm very curious to try this again.

RRM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=909120