Showing posts with label Collecting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Collecting. Show all posts

Sunday, September 3, 2023

Labor Day Family Cook-out features some classic collectable wines

Labor Day Family Cook-out features some old and new classic collectable wines

Son Alec and d-in-law Viviana hosted a Labor Day Holiday family cookout that provided an opportunity for a gala family get-together that included all our kids and grand-kids. 


Alec and Viv (below) prepared grilled tenderloin that they served as small bites on artisan bread. Here shown are Alec and sister Erin. Everyone chipped in and brought a salad or dessert or other.

Our three sons.

Ryan and I both brought a classic collectable or highly allocated special wine.

I took from our cellar this aged vintage collectable Marilyn Merlot in tribute to their daughter, grand-daughter Marylin. This follows taking another aged vintage bottle of this label to their cookout just a couple weeks ago. That bottle, from the 2005 vintage surpassed my expectations so I was eager to try another vintage, and continue to enjoy this fun collectable wine with Alec and Viv and the rest of the clan.

Ryan brought from his cellar this special, very limited release highly allocated Sta Rita Hills Pinot Noir

Alec prepared grilled tenderloin of steak that he served as small bites on artisan bread. There were numerous salads and accompaniments followed by a broad selection of desserts. 

Domaine De La Côte Sta Rita Hills Bloom's Field Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014

Ryan brought this very special selection rare, highly allocated bottle he acquired at auction.

Domaine de la Côte translates to 'Estate of the Slope' and is an estate of sixty acres in the Santa Rita Hills wine region planted to a collection of six vineyards planted over forty acres on the furthest western edge of the Sta. Rita Hills appellation in Santa Barbara County. 

The vineyards, as shown on the rear label (shown left): Memorious (3.5 acres), Bloom’s Field (7.5 acres), Siren’s Call (3 acres), Clos Juliet (1 acre), La Côte (9.5 acres), and 15.5 acres of appellation Sta. Rita Hills. 

The property rises to an elevation of 700 feet above the Santa Ynez River, lying on an ancient 25 million year old siliceous (silex) and diatomaceous seabed 7 miles from the Pacific Ocean.

Although the Domaine spans a mere forty acres, the diversity of its climats or unique terroir of each vineyard is staggering: each with a unique geology, aspect, elevation and microclimate. Such distinct expression of site, or terroir, in such close proximity, is unparalleled in California. 

A source of superior California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills is a relatively new AVA (Agricultureal Viticulture Area). It is the coolest, westernmost sub-region of the larger Santa Ynez Valley appellation within Santa Barbara County. The climate of Sta. Rita Hills is a natural match for Chardonnay and Pinot noir, thanks to the crisp ocean breezes and well-drained, limestone-rich calcareous soil allowing the vines and grapes to ripen optimally, while retaining brisk acidity and harmonious balance. 

Winemaker Sashi Moorman discovered the site and with Chris King developed several former Evening Land vineyards in the far western Santa Rita Hills in 2007. Under his direction, the vineyards were planted entirely to California heritage selections at extremely high vine densities between 4,000 and 7,000 vines per acre, unprecedented at the time for the appellation. Sashi Moorman along with Raj Parr  purchased the property at the beginning of 2013.

The Domaine was purchased by Moorman and superstar sommelier-turned-winemaker Rajat Parr, who sources grapes from his estate in the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County. Rajat Parr was the 2017 James Beard Foundation “Who’s Who Award” Winner, joining a short and impressive list of wine industry luminaries including Kermit Lynch, Marvin Shanken, Larry Stone, and Jim Clendenen.

When not in the vineyards, he’s been writing his second book, The Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste: A Field Guide to the Great Wines of Europe (Ten Speed Press, 2018), with co-author Jordan Mackay.

The La Côte vineyard covers a steep southeast-facing hillside on the leeward slope of the domaine. Unimpeded by the persistent continuous winds that confront the continguous Bloom’s Field parcel located to the west, and the Memorious vineyard plot to the south,  La Côte enjoys more optimal pollination and less shatter. The vineyard possesses the most heterogeneous soils of the estate: its bedrock varies from Monterey Shale to Diatomaceous Earth to alluvium, and the associated soils range from shallow and rocky with a covering of broken stones, to rich downslope.

The Domaine organically farms its vineyards and makes its wines with the philosophy of “add nothing; take nothing away.” All the wines are produced and bottled at the winery in the town of Lompoc in Santa Barbara County, three miles from the domaine.

Domaine De La Côte Bloom’s Field Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2014 

Ryan acquired this very special highly allocated bottle at auction and brought it to share.

This wine gained widespread critical acclaim and notoriety through coverage on the wine documentary, Somm 3, the latest installment in the documentary series that explores the world of sommeliers (wine professionals). It featured legendary wine industry experts and veterans Fred Dame, Jancis Robinson and Steven Spurrier, in conjunction with the next generation of primarily New York-based influencers that include Aldo Sohm, Laura Fiorvanti (nee Maniec), Pascaline Lepeltier and Sabato Sagaria.

The series featured biographical sketches of the participants and wine topics including arguments over the merits of blind tasting. The film spoke about the concept of tastings inspired by the famous 1976 Judgment of Paris that was the break-out for the American wine industry when, in that famous blind tasting, California wines outshined their French counterparts, setting the stage for the modern wine marketplace. 

In this series feature, they discuss Pinot Noir as the wine in question, rather than Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon which were the basis of the historical tasting. The show featured two separate tastings of six Pinots from acclaimed producers from around the world. Included was this 2014 Bloom’s Field bottling by Domaine de la Côte. Some of the judges considered it on par with, if not more “Burgundian,” than two celebrated wines from Burgundy!

Winemakers' notes: The 2014 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir is composed from declassified parcels and barrels of La Côte, Bloom’s Field, and Memorious vineyards. La Cote is from all 4 parts of the 9 acre vineyard parcel. La Cote lies behind a massive cliff of diatomaceous earth and is protected from the direct influence of the cold marine air from the pacific ocean. With its south-east exposition the vineyard absobs the energy of the morning sun and the exposed shale quickly warms the vines from the night time chill. The wine seems to have dark fruits on the nose with aromas of black cherry, sandalwood cola and sage. Like Bloom’s Field, La Cote is fermented with 100% whole bunches and aged for 20 months in 20% new Ermitage barrels. La Cote takes longer to open us. Decanting or ageing for 10+ years will greatly reward those with patience and cool cellars."

Winemakers' Notes: "The 2014 bottling was fermented with roughly 50% whole bunches and small amount of new oak used in the élevage. This wine has a pale red color with perfumed flavors of bing cherry, all spice and leather. The wine is open, softly textured, and finishes with silky tannins. We believe the wines have a long life in the bottle if properly cellared and should develop aromas and flavors of great complexity over the next 7+ years."

Decanter awarded this release 97 points and named it their top California Pinot from the 2014 vintage. Pundit Natalie MacLean scored this release 96/100, while this vintage release was awarded 93 points by Vinous, 92 points by John Gilman and 18/20 points by Jancis Robinson. 

1,020 cases were produced.

This was bright ruby colored, medium bodied, smooth texture, harmonius and balanced, red berry fruits with dusty rose petal, cinnamon and earthy spices and herb tones, turning to fine-grained tannins, tangy acidity and grip on the long, complex and nicely balanced finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2409152

https://domainedelacote.com/


Nova Wines Marilyn Merlot 2007

I published a blogpost last month about an earlier Family Cookout at which I brought another vintage of aged Nova Wines "Marilyn Merlot" Napa Valley Merlot with grilled beefsteak. As I wrote at that time, we have fun with this wine as a fun tribute to Alec and Viv's daughter, our grand-daughter Marylin.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/08/marilyn-merlot-with-grilled-beefsteak.html

I've written extensively in these pages about Marilyn Merlot and Norma Jean Wines - A Study in Branding  including a blogpost back in 2021 about the brand and our fun collecting the label, especially now that we have a similarly named grand-daughter!

I've written in these pages before about wine geeks, aka oenophiles, often take their passion for wine way too seriously, or certainly so, to those not so compulsive or fixated, which is most folks. Its important to back it down and simply have fun with wine too.

This blog focuses on wine tasting and collecting. Another discussion thread is a study in wine branding and marketing. Several producers release an artist series with each label featuring a piece of artwork to adorn that vintage release. 

One unique approach to wine branding and marketing is Marilyn Wines, of the entity Nova Wines, who since 1985, have featured iconic imagines of Marilyn Monroe, captured by many of the most talented portrait photographers of her era, to grace the labels of their Marilyn Merlot and Norma Jeane wines. 

In addition to Marilyn Merlot, Norma Jean is a lesser label with 'younger' second label grapes. Continuing the whimsical play on names, Norma Jean features a photograph taken of the young actress in the years just before she captured the imagination of the American public as Marilyn Monroe.

They have created an entire franchise on one celebrity identification theme based on a play on words - Marilyn Merlot featuring the iconic starlet Marilyn Monroe. Marilyn Wines holds an exclusive agreement with the estate of Marilyn Monroe for the use of the name and the images in their wine marketing and packaging.

The brand is the creation of Bob and Donna Holder of Rutherford in Napa Valley, who initially crafted a homemade Merlot back in 1983 using some purchased grapes and some grapes from the Holder property. They started selling their wine and created the brand.  In the early days, they purchased bulk wine, then, in 1997, they shifted from purchasing bulk wine to purchasing grapes. The wine is made at the Napa Wine Co. in Oakville, CA.

Marilyn Wines has extended the brand to a broad portfolio of labels based on Marilyn Monroe. The portfolio has expanded to also include Marilyn Meritage, Sauvignon Blond, Marilyn Cabernet, Red Dress and Blonde de Noirs, a sparkling wine. 

Building upon the collectables theme, they also produce an ultra premium Velvet Collection based upon a photo session on May 27, 1949 in Hollywood with photographer Tom Kelley. That two-hour photo shoot made history and established the aspiring but unknown actress, Marilyn Monroe as the ultimate sex symbol of the 20th century. The series features ten stunning photographs from the historic session, known as the "Red Velvet" series, each one a portrait of Marilyn Monroe posing on a red velvet drape. Each label of Velvet Collection of wine is covered with a protective vinyl overlay that, when removed, reveals the complete, original portrait.

Continuing the collectables theme, in many vintages, they also produce special process etched and painted bottles of Marilyn Merlot in limited production large format bottles, usually around 6 to 36 bottles of 1.5 Liter magnums and 2 to 10 bottles of 3 Liter double magnums. The bottles are placed in a sand carving cabinet where the artist utilizes instruments to hand carve out the design image on each of the bottles then to be hand painted. 

The brand has grown further with the release of Marilyn Merlot Rose and Marilyn Monroe Chardonnay.  For 2021, they also offer 2021 Marilyn Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley.

Of course the most famous or notable iconic collector series based on wine labels is the ultra-premium luxury French first Growth Chateau Mouton Rothschild. A study in wine branding and marketing at some point invites a discussion of art label series featuring original or reproductions of notable art or artists on the wine labels. No wine producer in the world captures the imagination or attention of wine collectors and wine art enthusiasts more than Mouton Rothschild with their annual artist series artist featured wine labels.

Each year a renowned artist is commissioned to do the artwork for that vintage. The featured artist is said to be paid ten cases of various vintages of the classic Chateau Mouton Rothschild for their work. Every collector dreams of collecting a 'vertical' collection (wines of multiple vintages of the same wine) of the classic premium First Growth Bordeaux to display the 'artwork' of Mouton.

My Winesite Label Library lists the Mouton Rothschild Label Library Series Artists and associated works by the artists for reference or to aid in further exploration or research of the library and its history. Just last month I updated the library with the 2018 release label of the legendary wine. 

As with Mouton Rothschild, I've assembled a portfolio of Marilyn labels in my label library on my winesite

As of this writing, the latest release available in Chicagoland stores in the 2018 and 2019 vintage releases of Marilyn Merlot, the 35th and 36th vintages of the iconic brand. Also available is the 2018 Norma Jeane, the 23st vintage of the Norma Jeane brand.
 
The Nova Marilyn Wines website is offering on-line the 2021 Marilyn Merlot, 2021 Marilyn Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, and 2021 Norma Jeane and 2020 Marilyn Merlot.

Playing on the name of the famous cinema starlet, Marilyn Monroe, the marketers at Nova Wines have  built the brand on an annual release of moderate priced Merlot varietal featuring an authentic Marilyn Monroe photo on the label. Each year the new vintage and label is released on June 1, Marilyn Merlot's birthday! What might have started out as a whimsical or even corny idea has turned into a fun wine that has an almost cult following in some precincts of collectors. 
 
Some of our close to two dozen vintages of Marilyn Merlot

The producer tries to maintain a delicate balance and moderate the hype of the collectability of the wine and the valuation of bottles over time versus the novelty and fun of the wine. It appears they've earnestly worked to improve the pedigree and quality of the product to produce a wine more worthy of and capable of long (er) term cellaring by sourcing from notable vineyard sources and producing a Red Bordeaux varietal blend. As such, the release price of the wine has crept up in recent years as well. As it has been since the 2018 release, that year's release price is $40 and the 'street price' has followed accordingly. This year's current release (2021) and last years (2020) are currently $45 from the producer.
However, in secondary markets, the price can be elevated even above the release price.

The producer site says, "Each new vintage of Marilyn Monroe Merlot sells out quickly. While collectors have made Marilyn Monroe Merlot one of the fastest-appreciating wines on the market, it is wine enthusiasts with a sense of humor who have long enjoyed the playful spirit behind Marilyn Merlot wines that are now also seeking the Marilyn Monroe Merlot because of the emphasis on making a notable wine from prized Napa Valley grapes. While the concept and engaging label of these wines has given these bottles a degree of fame, it is the wine in the bottle that merits the enthusiasm of those who seek it out every year.'

"This wine is every bit as special as its package," says Donna Holder, one of the owners of Marilyn Wines. "It is a must for collectors, but is also a Napa Valley Merlot that stands beautifully on its own."

The producer promotes highly escalated prices for vintage bottles of the label asking high prices that far exceed the pedigree of the wine, explicable only due to the marketing/branding of the label collection. I know of one reputable wine shop in a mid-size midwestern city that a few years ago held a 1985 Marilyn Merlot that they were offering at $3500.

I've assembled a portfolio of Marilyn labels in my label library on my winesite. And, I admit I've collected a 'vertical' collection of the wine and am still holding what now spans more than fifteen vintages. Indeed, we drank a dozen year old 2006 recently and it was drinking quite nicely. We do have fun gifting these wines to friends for suitable occasions, great for those not into the wine so much, but taken by the clever packaging. The Marilyn Merlot label is now in its 35th  year.

After that tasting of the 2005 vintage that exceeded my expectations, tonight I brought and we opened and drank the 2007 vintage release Marilyn Merlot.  

Marilyn Merlot 2007

This was the 23rd release of this iconic label. Like other releases, the grapes were sourced from "some of the finest vineyards in the heart of Napa Valley", and "this vintage was produced in one of California's oldest wineries."

Producer notes about this release:

"Diamonds may still be a girl's best friend, but in challenging times an outstanding Napa Valley Merlot that appreciates in value year after year offers a safe and savory haven for wine collectors and connoisseurs alike.'

"Frankswine.com of Franks Union Wine Mart said, "A collector's and connoisseur's Merlot!  This is a very drinkable wine, not just something to be collected by her fans, but by people who enjoy what's going on inside the artful bottle as well.  This wine will continue to improve with age..."

"With the release of the Marilyn Merlot 2007 on June 1st (Marilyn's birthday) a Napa Valley icon continues to offer its fans not just glamour but great value, too. "Marilyn Merlot wines are known to appreciate in value with most selling for several times their original price" notes Bob Holder, one of the owners of Marilyn Wines. "They offer great value as fine Napa Valley wines on release, and they evolve and appreciate with age."

That said, this release is offered from the producer's library at an offer price of $160 for a standard sized bottle, $600 for a etched 1.5 liter magnum, and for $800 for a three liter large format etched image bottle wherein "Each bottle is carefully masked, hand etched and hand painted, resulting in a truly unique work of art on this 2007 (1.5 liter) 3 Liter Marilyn Merlot."

"The 2007 vintage of Marilyn Merlot continues this tradition and promises glamorous evenings of enjoyment to its many fans." 

About this release, Stephanie of Champion Wine Cellars wrote:

"More than Pretty Labels! Stephanie on Mar 01, 2021'

"Wanted to report that we actually drank a bottle of the 2007 Norma Jean. We know the Marilyn wines are sound and generally a pleasure to drink.'

"This was above and beyond! A lovely surprise. Bright and rich with a full middle palate and complex, extended finish! The bottle had sediment caked on the glass (from being on its side in one spot). Wine was dense, but well-balanced with cedary and blueberry jam aromas. We drank it over 3 days and it did not lose any character by the end of the bottle.'

"2007 was an exceptional vintage, and the Tallerico Vineyard near Lodi produced a wine with good aging potential. This goes to show that these wines are more than pretty labels!"

Interestingly, more wine reviews speak to the collect-ability and potential appreciation of the bottles, rather than the wine itself. Indeed, "The Vintage Stuff Store" writes as a caveat on its page featuring this wine, "The wine has been meticulously stored but serves ultimately for its collectable beauty and not necessarily for its drinkability. There is no guarantee for the wine itself, but the bottle and label are in perfect condition."

But alas, as posted on the header of these pages, this blogpost is all about, "Enjoying wine - perspectives on wine buying, collecting, tasting, a study in wine marketing & branding; observations, experiences and ruminations of a winegeek & frequent traveler. Sharing so others can 'unwindwine' for greater wine discovery, understanding and appreciation."

While we collect and study wine, we also like to drink it, and observe how (certain) wines age and reach a peak then diminish as they reach the end of, and beyond their drinking window. Many, all age-worthy wines follow a bell shaped curve of improving with age, then eventually diminishing. The height and length of that curve is subject to the quality, depth, breadth, structure and chemistry of what is in the bottle. And, that curve will be different for each wine, and for each vintage of each wine. 

Hence, for the benefit of collectors, those that may be holding similar bottles, I focus on, and report on the 'fill level' of the bottle, and the condition of the cork, as each diminishes with age at some point. The fill level and condition of the foil and label affect the collect-ability value of the wine.

This 2007, at sixteen years of age, the fill level of the bottle, the condition of the foil and label, and most importantly, the cork were all in ideal, pristine condition. The wine was drinkable, even enjoyable, but clearly reaching the end of its ideal drinking window.

The wine was garnet colored, with some purple, with some bricking and orange, brown - rust hues beginning to set in, yet, after a half hour, the dark berry and black cherry fruits emerged to reveal themselves, with notes of dusty, earthy leather, some dried tobacco leaf, black tea and hints of cedar under the surface. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=741423

https://www.marilynwines.com/product/2007-Marilyn-Merlot

https://www.marilynwines.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/08/marilyn-merlot-with-grilled-beefsteak.html


Thursday, July 2, 2020

Our Wine Cellar

Our Wine Cellar - deep and diverse - horizontal, verticals, large formats and favorite styles and labels ...

I regularly refer to our wine cellar in these pages. I expose and feature it here. Each month the leading wine publication, Wine Spectator, features a collector in their Collecting column. We and our cellar collection were the feature in the June 15th, 2001 issue.

A highlight of the feature was our collection of birth year vintage wines for the birth years of our children, coupled with our collection of large format bottles of those wines - magnums, 3 liter double magnums, 5 liter Jeroboams, 6 liter Imperials, and a 9 liter Salmanazar.

Indeed, we served fine wines from those large format bottles at our all our childrens' weddings, and we're holding more for the others' upcoming weddings, anniversaries, and for other gala celebrations and events to come.
 
See links to Big Bottles, Birthyear Bottles, and Family celebrations: 


See my feature page Wine Bottle Sizes Explained on the different size bottles for different wine types. 
 
Large format, birth year vintage wines served at
our daughter's wedding.
Our cellar - Its not fancy, its functional, for a purpose. People often ask me about cellar design. Its a cellar - for wine storage. If you're creating a showroom or tasting or dining room, then so be it.. But who wants to dine in 58 degrees?

Racks? There are all kinds of racks and kits and professional designs and installations. Again, our cellar is utilitarian and the racks were somewhat of a 'family affair'. In fact, most of them were father-son projects over a period of time where we designed and built a wine storage rack as part of a fun, teaching, bonding, collaboration project. 
 
Each section and project provided an opportunity to spend time together and teach basic woodworking as well as project planning and management with my three sons. 

Hence, we have several wine racks of various  bespoke designs, not perfect, but uniquely 'ours', and each a special memory, and functional for the long run, especially those over-engineered or excessively designed, all purpose built for our cellar. 

Our cellar contains racks that were designed and purpose built for standard size 750 ml bottles - some for bulk storage and some for 'display'. 

We also built racks for our large format bottle collection - some for 1500ml or 1.5 liter 'magnum' bottles, 3 liter 'double magnum' bottles, and larger format bottles as well. 

We also have bulk storage racks designed to hold full original wood cases (OWC's) of wine - a format used for many premium and ultra-premium wines as well as many Grand Cru Classe and other quality Bordeaux wines. 

Also, many large format bottles have their own individual OWC's. Shown right are six liter bottles of 90BV6L - Silver Oak Bonny's Vineyard 1990 - one bottle per OWC, note serial numbers 41 and 47.

Temperature and humidity control - If building a cellar to store wine for more than the shortest term, temperature and humidity control are essential. Once again, there are residential and commercial grade units for temperature and humidity control. It's best to have these professionally installed as they can be complicated with needs for special wiring, water supply and water disposition. 

Our cellar employs two methods of temperature and humidity control. First, it is a true cellar, placed in a basement under the house at nine feet deep below grade. It is sided by concrete walls on three sides that are exterior below grade. So the basic temperature is naturally moderate and rather stable. 

Additionally, we have a passive temperature control system. Living in an unincorporated location without municipal services, we have our own well for water service to our home. As part of that system, we have a large well water tank to pressurize and supply our property with water. That well tank is in our wine cellar and provides a constant 55% degree heat sink to moderate the cellar environment. 

We also have supplemental air conditioning to provide auxiliary cooling for the cellar when needed. 

At the end of the day, (or decade), the true test is how well bottles age in the cellar. We regularly open aged vintage bottles of wine that have been stored in our cellar since being acquired upon release, ten, twenty and as long as thirty-five years earlier. Invariably, the bottles, corks, labels, and most importantly, the wine have aged gracefully and appropriately. We often say, whatever we are doing, keep doing it, when we open such bottles of well maintained, properly aged, fine wines, in superb condition.  

We hold about 2500+ bottles in our cellar, plus more in a couple wine coolers adjacent to the kitchen for staging. While we're at a stage of life where we should be consuming our wine, we still tend to acquire our share as well so the holdings remain the same. We have almost as much  fun acquiring the wine, as we do drinking it, as this blog will atest. 

As to be expected, 95 percent of our wine cellar is Red wines. Only a couple cases of whites and Champagnes are held for short duration cellaring, nearer term drinking. We do have a collection of white dessert wines which do age well and can be held for decades or more but its single digit cases. 
 
People regularly ask me where I buy my wines. The answer is, wherever wines are sold. Actually, we regularly 'audit' the local wine shops, both the wine superstores, and the local independent merchants. We're always on the prowl for values, but also trying and buying wines in the styles that we prefer. We're also always buying and trying new labels, and occasionally, new regions or styles.  
 
We also acquire wine from favorite produces through their 'clubs' or memberships - ensuring continuity and access to favorite labels - especially for our collectibles. Much of the fun of collecting is comparing a label from vintage to vintage, over time as it ages, at different stages of its tasting/aging profile. One of the benefits of having a wine group of wine buddies is that we mix it up, spreading and sharing the club memberships. This way we can participate in three or four times as many clubs between us, and then we share the case purchases between three or four of us.
 
Lastly, we're always filling out our collections with new vintages of our verticals or new labels of our horizontals. (A vertical collection is many vintages of the same label; a horizontal is multiple labels of the same vintage). 
 
Readers of this column know we have vertical collections of favorite labels that span as much as 25 years (obviously age-worthy wines) and horizontal collections for each of our childrens' (and now grandchildren's) birth-years. 
 
Selection from Vertical Collection of Dunn Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignons
These pages are filled with different examples of tasting events of various verticals or horizontals. We hold vertical collections spanning as long as three decades of numerous producers including Del Dotto, Robert Craig, Clark Claudon, Dunn Family Vineyards, Fantesca, Ducru Beaucaillou, Leoville Las Cases, Gruaud Larose and others.

See the following features from our earlier blogposts highlighting vertical or horiztonal tastings: 

Ducru Beaucaillou Vertical Showcases Pour Boys Wine Dinner

Kathryn Hall Vertical Tasting - Hall Wine Release Tour 2015

Silver Oak Alexander Valley Vertical

 In some cases we did a mini horizontal and vertical in one tasting:

Caymus and Del Dotto Napa Cabernets - 1995-96 horizontal - vertical !

Example of a gala Horizontal Vintage tasting from our Pour Boys Wine Group:

Bordeaux 2003 Horizontal Tasting on the Cityscape Deck - Grilled Steak Dinner

2003 Vintage Bordeaux Horizontal Flight
 
As mentioned often in these pages, we maintain our cellar inventory in CellartrackerI was developing a personal app on my own and had a vision for essentially the same solution, however, I'm a marketing guy, not a software engineer with the skills to develop a comprehensive sophisticated application. I spoke of my vision for such a site in my Wine Spectator interview in 2001.

CellarTracker was originally created in March, 2003 by Eric LeVine who was working for Microsoft at the time, to track his own collection. After extending access to several friends the site quickly grew to 100 users tracking 60,000 bottles.

LeVine launched the site to the public in 2004 and left shortly thereafter to manage it full time. Since then, the site has grown steadily every since.

Today, CellarTracker is the leading cellar management tool with hundreds of thousands of collectors tracking more than 75 million bottles. CellarTracker has also grown to become the largest database of community tasting notes with more than 5.8 million notes as of late 2016. The site is also visited by millions of wine enthusiasts annually to read the reviews and get wine recommendations. Patron members who contribute a voluntary fee get access to cost information - the aggregate average price paid for a wine by the community. This in of itself is worth the annual contribution investment, the ability to validate the price of any particular wine across a wide community of mostly astute consumers.

Finally, here is a link to a gallery of our friends' wine cellars, many of which you see featured in these pages over the past years, or certainly the wines from such cellars.  Friends Cellars - Take a look at the cellars of our Pour Boy wine group and other friends

Thursday, May 28, 2020

Rosemount Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah 2000 and 1997

Rosemount Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah 2000 and 1997

This classic Aussie Shiraz (aka Syrah), is a single vineyard designated bottling from a well known high volume producer. Rosemount Balmoral Syrah is made from grapes grown in 50-100 year old vineyards. Balmoral Syrah from McLaren Vale in South Central Australia takes its name from the Oatley family homestead, built in 1852. Rosemount Estate was founded in 1974 and had its first release in 1975 and has built a strong Australian and international reputation for producing high-quality wines.This wine was first produced in 1989 initially under the Show Reserve banner but in 1992 it was renamed Balmoral and over the ensuing years become Rosemount's top flagship red wine.

We discovered and started collecting this wine in the mid-nineties and still hold over four cases spanning a decade of vintages from 1992 to 2002. We hold several vintages in the original six-pack cases from several vintages including this 2000 obtained upon release.

The label was Awarded Wine of the Year in Australia in 1998, it won both a Trophy and a Gold medal at the coveted Decanter World Wine Awards in 2011 and again in 2012 and consistently receives 90+ points from Wine Spectator across multiple Balmoral vintages.

Predominantly sourced from the McLaren Vale sub-region of Seaview, this wine is made from premium parcels from carefully selected vineyards (ranging from 50 to 100 years old) that produce tiny quantities of exceptional fruit. The result is a wine that delivers intense depth of flavour, superb length and fine acidity with a soft, velvety tannin structure and is known to be suitable for long term aging.


Following the 2000 vintages wines opened the past few evenings, Linda prepared a homemade pizza and I pulled from the cellar this 2000 vintage Shiraz. The next evening she prepared BBQ ribs and I opened a 1997 vintage release of the same label for a mini-vertical tasting of the label. 

Rosemount Estate Balmoral McLaren Vale South Australia Syrah 2000

I note regularly in these pages that a key to and part of the fun of having a wine cellar collection is to drink a wine over a period of years to witness how that wine ages. This is a testament to that process, for a wine that has longevity and has evolved gracefully over two decades now.

After fermentation the 2000 vintage was racked off its skins and aged for two years, in a 60/40 blend of new French and American oak. 

Consistent with previously reported tasting notes from 2010 and 2012, this 2000 was dark inky purple/garnet colored, medium-full bodied. Aromatic, leather, slightly earthy aroma that gives way to complex flavorful blue fruit and ripe black raspberry fruits that turn to raisin, tangy black cherry, cassis, tar, and tobacco turning to an aftertaste of smoke, currant and a hint of plum. Over the course of the evening, the wine seemed to age as the berry fruits gave way to the more fig raisin aged feel while the deep aromatics lingered.


This is a classic Syrah that interestingly is aged two years in American Oak. The winemaker's notes say it should cellar for fifteen or more years. My tasting notes back in 2010 spoke to the full aromatics and flavorful ripe black raspberry, raisin, black cherry, cassis, tar and cedar flavors that turn to an aftertaste of currant and a hint of plum." At ten years of age I noted it was "starting to show age a bit. Drink over next year or so."

In 2012, at twelve years of age, I wrote consistent notes that spoke to revealing the aging effects of this wine... "Dark inky purple color. Medium-full bodied. Aromatic, leather, slightly earthy aroma that gives way to complex flavorful blue fruit and ripe black raspberry, raisin, black cherry, cassis, tar, and tobacco that turns to an aftertaste of smoke, currant and a hint of plum. Over the course of the evening, the wine seemed to age as the berry fruits gave way to the more fig raisin aged feel while the deep aromatics lingered. While I gave it a 92 initially on opening, by the end of the night I gave it a 90."

At fifteen years of age, this wine was aging gracefully and still holding its own, aging consistent with earlier notes back in 2010 and 2012 ... this revealed the same tasting and aging profile, consistent with earlier notes. Bright aromatics fill the room upon opening, the same dark inky purple color and medium body persists.

The notes from 2012 reflected this wine seemed frozen in time at this stage of its life, still holding its own and showing no further diminution of aging.
Tonight, at twenty years, it was showing amazing resilience and still holding on, albeit showing some diminution from aging.

This is consistent with other Cellartracker members' where on 1/7/2012 - monkeylug wrote, "drinking well now even though at the end of its window." and then as late as just recently on 11/24/2005 - rkorchid wrote, "there are still slightly dry tannins, so there is plaenty (sic) of life left in this."

Aromatic, leather, slightly earthy aroma that gives way to complex flavorful blue fruit and ripe black raspberry fruits that turn to raisin, black cherry, cassis, tar, and tobacco turning to an aftertaste of smoke, currant and a hint of plum. Over the course of the evening, the wine seemed to age as the berry fruits gave way to the more fig raisin aged feel while the deep aromatics lingered.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=14749

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/02/rosemount-balmoral-syrah-2000.html

Rosemount Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah 1997


This was a good pairing with tangy BBQ ribs.

Consistent with earlier tasting notes, "The dark purple colour, is starting to subside to garnet color with a slight hazy brownish hue, full aroma of perfume and fruit - the diminution of fruit continues as this wine is showing its age further with ripe concentrated plum and blackberry and black cherry fruits hanging on but giving way to green bell pepper replacing the ripe raisin fig tones, accented by leather, smoke and a somewhat funky wet wood and  cedar with a touch of vanilla and sweet cherry - tightly wound with a tinge of tight tannins and acid on the subdued fruit finish.'

'These notes from 2014 followed my earlier note in 2013 that said, "Its time to drink up as this '97 which is showing its age as the fruit starts to diminish somewhat.

Looking at Cellartracker tasting notes, one writer reports this vintage still holding on while another says his is over the hill. While past its prime, this was still very much still inside the drinking window." Showing that continued diminution, I would say that while still holding, this is nearing the end of its drinking window."

In 2016, it was written, This was a fitting wine to open on New Year's eve, twenty years beyond release, suitable tasting with festive holiday buffet foods of sausages, ham, olives and avocado dips and cheeses. 

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=17074

Wednesday, January 22, 2020

UGCB 2017 Release Tour Chicago

UGCB North American 2017 Vintage Release Tour Chicago

The UGC Bordeaux (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)), annual release tour visited Chicago this week unveiling/showcasing their 2017 vintage release wines. The Union is the association of 134 of the top premier estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations. This year's North American tour visited Toronto, New York, Washington DC, Chicago, LA and San Francisco.

Pour Boys, Ernie, Lyle, Dan, Rick
Sans Bill
As in previous years, our 'Pour Boys' wine group (left) helped conduct the event in Chicago. 

Once again it was held at the Drake Hotel in the magnificent grand ballroom (shown below). 

We work with the UGCB Events Manager, Olivier Crombez, host Mike Wangbickler and his Balzac Communications team preparing the room and the wines, checking in trade registrants, and standing in for producers who faced travel or other disruptions, presenting and pouring their wines. 

Several times over the years, several producers or their representatives were delayed in travel or had other disruptions and we were called in to service to pour their wines, hence we earned our moniker, the 'Pour Boys'.


Close to a hundred producers were represented at the event that was attended by over five hundred members of the trade, media and industry.





Francois-Xavier-Maroteaux
Owner Château Branaire-Ducru
As is their custom in the third week of January, this annual roadshow is a marathon trek across North America by the producers and their representatives offering wine professionals and eonphiles the chance to meet the Bordeaux principles, winemakers and commercial directors.

As I've written in previous years, we appreciate the investment in time and effort expended by the producers and and their brand ambassadors to visit Chicago. It provides a wonderful opportunity to meet them firsthand and discuss their perspectives on their brand, approach to crafting their style, their history, businesses, and their vintages including, of course, the current release.


As a collector and holder of a significant collection of Bordeaux wines dating back four decades, I hold as many as a dozen or more vintages of some of these labels. Meeting the owners, family members, producer / winemaker / representative is a great privilege and offers a collector the chance to learn more about their  investment and wines. As such, I tend to focus on and taste those wines that I know well and hold verticals (multiple vintages of the same label), of which my wine buddies and I have holdings.


Lilian Barton-Sartorius - Châteaux
Leoville and Langoa Barton
This was the tenth Bordeaux release event that I and my 'Pour Boy' wine buddies assisted the team at Balzac Communications to work the event, helping with set up, logistics, checking in the attendees, and standing in to pour wine for any featured producers that were not able to attend in person. 

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts.

This year was especially exciting since we visited Bordeaux this past year and we got to visit with several of the producers' and brand ambassadors whose Chateau's or vineyards we visited on our trip. 


As usual, we focused on the Left Bank producers that we own and collect, but this year particularly, we focused on  those that we visited this year, as well as those we are targeting for our next visit to the Medoc.

Karine Barbier - Château Lascombes
The 2017 vintage was a bit challenging interrupting the streak of great harvests 2015 through 2019, primarily due to a frost that hit the region early in the season. 

The wine team of K&L Wines in the San Francisco Bay Area, Clyde Beffa and Ralph Sands, issued their 2017 Bordeaux vintage report following their tour to the region. 
2017 Bordeaux will be remembered as the year of the great frost that struck just after the tastings, April 27 and 28, with temperatures as low as -4 Celsius on both nights. But due to climate changes and increased knowledge on how to combat impending frost, the vintage is not the disaster that estates withstood in 1991.
Read more at:https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/2018/04/2017-bordeaux-vintage-and-harvest-report/
2017 Bordeaux will be remembered as the year of the great frost that struck just after the tastings, April 27 and 28, with temperatures as low as -4 Celsius on both nights. But due to climate changes and increased knowledge on how to combat impending frost, the vintage is not the disaster that estates withstood in 1991.
Read more at:https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/2018/04/2017-bordeaux-vintage-and-harvest-report/

The 2017 vintage year will be remembered as the year of the frost, but it’s also a vintage in which many of the top châteaux produced some very good wines. It was a year when location really mattered, the terroir really made a difference as those vineyards with proximity to the moderating effects of the Gironde estuary were less affected by the frost. And those with the rocky well drained soils recovered from the rains.

2017 was atypical with its early growing season, with early and successful flowering in late May, sunshine, then heavy rain in June, followed by a dry and cool summer, then late August heat, and many damp days just before the red harvest in September.

The quality of 2017 is much better than most people might expect. While it’s not in the same league as the outstanding 2016 and 2015 vintages, it not near the largely disappointing 2013.

The challenging year all round still produced some well proportioned red Bordeaux – and some excellent whites too, both dry and sweet. While not big, full and structured, many of the 2017 reds are approachable upon release and should provide early gratification in their youth.

Anne-Francoise Quie
Château Rauzan-Gassies

The whites showed especially well and the top Sauternes and a number of dry whites could definitely be on par with the efforts in 2015 and 2016.

2017 Bordeaux is a stylistic choice, you are going to like the character, which can be bright, focusing on red fruits or not. Generally, the wines are; medium bodied, fresh, aromatic and lighter in alcohol than sunnier vintages. The tannins are soft. The fruits are sweet and the majority of the wines will be enjoyable early in life.
Read more at:https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/2018/04/2017-bordeaux-vintage-and-harvest-repor
Marie Helene-Dussech
Château Brane-Cantenac
 
The challenging vintages such as 2017, following some outstanding years, often offer opportunities for collectors to find some values to stock their cellars with wines that should provide enjoyable drinking soon, not requiring several years of cellaring to mature and reach their optimal drinking window.


Lise Latrille - Château Prieure Lichine
The event is sponsored by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, (UGCB) and is hosted and orchestrated by Balzac Communications, boutique wine marketing and communications consultancy firm in Napa, under the leadership of Mike Wangbickler, President. 

Attending again this year too was Paul Wagner, founder and Chairman Emeritus of Balzac. Paul is a founding member of the Academy of Wine Communications and a leading member of the American Wine Society. As with last year, again, it was great to see Paul enjoying his passion and remaining engaged whilst in retirement.

The afternoon session is for the benefit of the press and trade and wine professionals. Again this year, the evening session in Chicago was hosted trade merchant partner Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicagoland wine superstore, offering tickets to the evening session to their valued customers and the public. This year, over four hundred collectors and vinophiles registered for the even. 


Setting up in the venue with care.